Can I replace self-levellg with dry shocks?
 

I've been told i can simply by-pass the self-levelling system by routeing the oil from the pump back onto itself, and then replacing the hydraulic shocks with dry ones.
however, ordinary w124 dry shocks are too long, so i am wondering, has anyone done this and know exactly which shock i should be using to replace teh original?

thanks as always

stumbler

You can and others have (including myself) but nobody has liked the results afterwards.

Fix the suspension problem and enjoy functional SLS.

Why do you want to replace the SLS? The PO of my 123 replaced it because the lines were all gone. He put in gas shocks (don't recall which ones right now). It sits lower and probably needs different springs, too. I'd rather have tried fixing the SLS, personally.

x2, what he said.

There's alot of debate here about this topic. There aren't too many people happy with conversions. What I've heard from others who have tried it is, you need to find stronger coil springs, correct shims and shocks that fit. If you don't carry heavy loads, you "might" like it OK. There is a conversion kit from **************.com.

Are you unable to repair the SLS? If the hydraulic struts are leaking you can get replacements from a junkyard. As long as they aren't leaking they will be fine. Most parts you need can be replaced with used stuff. Leaking hydraulic lines and blown out accumulators should be replaced with new.

Anyway ... Rerouting the pump lines should work, but you can remove it completely and put a plate over the pump spot.

That is a rip off.

I've been doing a big search here, and it seems that the conversion is not without consequence...

Okay, i'll give in on this one for a while, and start replacing bits on the sls, trouble is, it's not the bits, it's the replacing, everything is soooooooooo rusty under there, i am really struggling to move anything without destroying it.

mercedes could have put all this fragile stuff inside the car with the spheres to protect it. this layout is stupid and prone to destruction
(B minus!)

many thanks

stumbler

I don't know what mine would feel like with the SLS in it. As it is now, the ride is hard. I don't mind too much as it just feels like a really tight suspension. If you don't mind that, it might be okay.

So I've heard. I went through this thought process for my own SLS. I am very happy that I decided to repair it. I ended up spending under $500 and it's great.

Since finishing the repairs, I decided I'm going to need to replace the coil springs too (sits a little too low). I found a pair of new ones from a forum member for $95 shipped. Now I just have to get my hands on a spring compressor.:cool:

How do you figure you need new springs? Are you talking front? The SLS should be adjusted if the rear is low ???

From my understanding of it, the SLS valve has 3 valves in it: Base pressure valve, fill valve and release valve. The coil springs and the base pressure valve should maintain the correct height assuming the pump is OK. The linkage just adjusts the activation points of the fill and release valves when a load is added or removed. My linkage is adjusted so the lever stays at the neutral position unless there is a load added.

Do I need to correct my thinking on this?:confused:

I haven't seen much debate... most everyone agrees that fixing the SLS is the way to go (in this thread and many others).

Previous owner(s) could have maintained car better, too.

The car is 20 years old, after all. Most other car brands at that age have lots more things wrong.

I know, you're just cursing your fate. I do that sometimes but I get over it.

mine wagon sits without sls. rides fine. dry shocks. i carry heavy ass rocks every where (stone carver). but i bought the car with a 300D in it without the self leveling system (different engine) rear shocks have always been fine.

What parts are bad?

There are so many systems on these cars that people fix, but for some reason folks don't want to trouble shoot and fix the SLS they would rather go to the trouble of converting it {and almost always not being happy with it}.
Just fix what is wrong and enjoy a properly working SLS on a wagon. It is a pleasure and I'm sure it works much better than the heavy ass rock guy's car.....;)

I replaced both rear trailing arms w/ no compressor. to do this, I had to remove the springs and shocks. it is possible, I followed instructions on this site- I think DMorrison has write up on the rear suspension bushings that is very helpful. If you have an extra set of hands, it is easier.

I ended up using some 1/2 all thread to hold the springs in place from above, inside the car at the top shock mount point- not compressing them at all, just to hold them there. I did re-use my springs- new ones may be harder to do??

if you replace them, get new trailing arm bushings and subframe mounts and may as well to the diff mount to. and brake lines. and brakes. and wheel bearings and...........



I love the sls- carry a lot of weight and tow with it- it is awesome- no other passenger car I have used as a truck :o comes close to these wagons....

Thanks for the tip.:) I'm overhauling my brakes next ... everything except the booster and hard lines. I could do the bushings, mounts and bearings too. Is there a way to replace the subframe bushings without a special tool?