Searched the archives, but couldn't find my particular symptoms. I am noticing what seems like more vibration and even shaking than normal, but in addition to that, there is a sort of "notchy" sensation which is especially noticable at slow speeds. As I'm slowing for a stop I feel the steering wheel is not turning smoothly, but rather "notching" around one inch at a time. Does that description make sense? It's a 1987 300D.

Any ideas what is going on?

Thanks!

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine

Jack up the front end and grab the tires at top and bottom and shake. If there is movement, you tie rods need attention. I would clean and repack the wheel bearings while I had the front end of the ground, too.

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Dave
1983 300D Daily Driver

Start at your steering box and check for loosness then check all the steering components tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, wheel bearings,, and while your down there all your control arm and subframe bushings, it sounds like the yoke worn out just above your steering box I have seen these come compleatly loose and causing nasty steering affects and loss of control. Just my conclusion from what you reported, Jerry

I bet your tires are out of round. Certainly check out the front end components as described above, but also check the tires. With the front end in the air rotate each front wheel. Use a fixed object - a spare jackstand works fine - to get an idea of the runout in each tire. More than ~1.5mm and you'll get some vibration at 60MPH, a funny shake at 30MPH, and feel the front end rising/falling at parking lot speeds.

- JimY

Tires can get off in side to side as well. Makes the car sort of waddle at low speeds. Maybe a bad recirulating ball in the steering box? (Not sure is the 87 has the old style steering box.

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1985 300D
The rest:
1957 MGA (comatose)
1965 Falcon (sleeping)
1966 E-100 (rust test in progress)
1976 Ford 3400 D Tractor (workhorse)
1978 Mercury Zephyer (5L playtoy)
1995 Isuzu NPR D (fetcher)
1998 Subaru Legacy (Spare)
2000 Toyota Sienna (School bus)
2008 Toyota Prius (Commuter)

Sounds like a worn belt or bad belt tensioner.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Put front wheel on back. Rear wheel on front. Same side. Do one side at a tiime. Re reading your description sounds like a broken belt in a tire. By notchiness I assume the steering wheel is kind of wiggiling back and forth as you get really slow.

Turns out I have a bubble/bump on my right front tire. That is probably the cause of the steering weirdness. I tried grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and shaking it back and forth. It did move just a little bit. Is it supposed to be completely immobile? I did have the rotors off a while back, and thus had to re-tighten the bearings. I'm wondering if I should tighten them a bit more?

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine

The bubble is a broken belt. You do know it's not safe to drive on that tire, right?

A barely detectable bit of play is OK. All my 124s have a tiny bit of play when wiggled from the 12 & 6 positions of the tire, and they all drive like a 124 is supposed to. Replace the tire and go from there.

- JimY

If you are concerned about the front wheel bearings adjustment. That is very easy to read up about in the archives. It does no harm to double check in the archives and decide on the best method to tighten them properly in your circumstances. The slight amount af play you detected is probably normal.
In the so called old days it was one of the first things I did on any new to me used car aquired. Just removed and repacked the front wheel bearings automatically. I do not know if it was a wise thing but by and large I did not land up changing many front wheel bearings over all those years.
I believe mercedes of the 123 vintage might have a better system of helping grease flow in those bearings than then. If the grease stiffens up with time it will loose this ability to some extent.
Also it gives you an opportunity to inspect the general condition of the bearings and races. Always a better alternative than a failure on the road.
Cheaper than changing the bearings later because of no maintenance. The original type are of very high quality. The cheaper chinese aftermarket replacement ones not as good I would think.
Some of these cars have a lot of milage accumulated over time. Many have not had those bearings looked at in a very long time. Recommended frequency of checking and repacking on these models is unknown by me. Always pays to change the grease seal at the back out as well. They get old and tired too.

So I got it all sorted out this morning. I took it to the tire place and we played musical tires & wheels with the collection of various tires and wheels I had in the garage, until I ended up with a set of good tires and wheels, and no more steering issues. It was definitely the broken radial belt that was causing the problem.

Thanks to everyone for your responses. This forum is awesome!

Dan

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine