New oil pan and gasket, still leaks. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ascalise · #1 03-20-2008, 07:02 PM

I replaced my oil pan and gasket last night and it leaks more from the back now that it ever did. I cleaned the surface on the upper pan perfectly. I put a thin bead of ultra black on both sides of the gasket. Whats the deal with this? I tightened all bolts to 10nm like the shop manual shows. Should i go to 15nm?

Stevo · #2 03-20-2008, 07:28 PM

I had to re tighten mine three (3) times

, I cant remember if I used the "blue' stuff or not, dont think so. It was a very "thick' gasket.

AdvisorGuy · #3 03-20-2008, 07:28 PM

you sure it's the pan and maybe not the rear main seal ?

Jkid · #4 03-20-2008, 07:51 PM

Are you sure it's just not leaking onto the pan and then off the back. I currently have the same problem and can't seem to track it down. You may want to re torque the bolts again, they seem to loosen a bit after reinstalling a new pan/gasket. You don't really want the over torque, that's pretty soft metal. It's taken a while, but my leak has miraculously just about stopped since I replaced the pan. I may be able to get rid of the driveway rug now.

ascalise · #5 03-20-2008, 08:05 PM

rear main seal may be leaking a tad since the back of the engine has sludge all over it but it never makes it to the ground. however, this leak is not coming from the rear main seal. It is from the pan. I could leave the car parked in the same spot after driving it everyday and would only get a couple of drips on the driveway. Now everytime i shut it down it drips about 6 drips.

ascalise · #6 03-20-2008, 08:06 PM

Thats why i was asking about retightening. What do you guys think i should torque them to this time around?

leathermang · #7 03-21-2008, 12:54 PM

What kind of gasket is it ?
Did you put it on something flat and make sure your sheetmetal was flat along the sealing surface ?
I don't know anything about ' ultra black'... I use the GE High RTV Red... but I don't use it wet against the surface of the gasket.... I coat the gasket with it...and let it cure overnight... then put another thin...very thin coat and stick it on... this takes away the possibility some might be pressed into the oil pan and get sucked up to the oil screen....
This procedure also makes it easy to use cork gaskets if they are available ,,which have more compression available for bent sheetmetal... or scratches...any flaws ...
Everything has to be chemically clean... so I wipe down with alcohol last... and until your paper towel comes off clean you just keep doing that... and that is slow because it will be drawing the oil out of the pores of the block... but necessary for sealing sometimes..
Greg

ascalise · #8 03-21-2008, 01:02 PM

Here is a picture of the gasket i used.

http://www.***************/search/imageexpand.aspx?imageurl=../secure/PartImages/1150140122.jpg

No, i didnt check the pan against glass. It was brand new.

leathermang · #9 03-21-2008, 01:11 PM

No need for glass....
I suggest you start over...
take it all apart....clean... coat both sides of gasket with RTV high temp Red... let cure overnight... and carefully reassemble...
A pain... but clean is the byword in this process...
About 30 years ago I put a new waterpump on a 318 Dodge truck... I don't know how many things were attached to that engine on one or another of the bolts which held that water pump... a real mess... but when that new gasket leaked I changed to the procedure I have described to you... may seem extreme and slow.. but it pales compared to redoing a gasket job.... as you are in the process of finding out...

bodyart27 · #10 03-21-2008, 03:11 PM

see post # 6 on this thread: Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing

JimmyL · #11 03-21-2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodyart27

see post # 6 on this thread: Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing

I never tire seeing pics of your cars. I appreciate such unattainable cleanliness!!!!

bodyart27 · #12 03-24-2008, 09:55 AM

after the replacing the oil cooler lines (which I did after the turbo drain) I have to say the car has never been so leak free!

I'm just crossing my fingers at this point that I'll be good to go for a while (just fluids and filters)

car still has this odd pull right that I haven't had the time to chase down and I know I have something loose near the blower / glovebox that is squeek crazy over bumps, but otherwise (knock on wood) everything is working and nothing is leaking! 243K miles and counting!

BlackRedGold · #13 03-24-2008, 11:33 PM

one of the first things i did when i bought my 300D was replace the leaky oil pan and gasket, used permatex ultra black as well. upon reinstalling the pan, i over-torqued one of the bolts and twisted the head off, leaving the threaded portion in the upper oil pan. after a lot of cursing and drinking, i was able to remove the pan and all of the permatex (massive pita!). with some help, i then was able to carefully drill out the old bolt and use a tap to clean the threads of the upper pan. i bought a new gasket and repeated the process with the ultra black again.

it was still leaking from the rear...ended up being the turbo drain grommet. cheap part, not too hard to get the upper portion removed from the turbo. but wait, what's that you say? you say you have to remove the oil pan and use a drift to pound the lower portion of the drain tube up and out of the pan? so i removed it for the third time, cleaned all the ultra black up for the second time, pounded the tube out, replaced everything and bolted it carefully back together (torqued to about 12nm) and i now have a leak free 300D!

except for the oil filter housing.