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  #1  
Old 03-22-2008, 07:09 PM
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83 300D Exhaust System Repair

Hi All,

Having problems and looking for advise. Trying to take off the head pipe. One of the nuts, the one nearest to the engine, is rounded all to hell. Difficult spot to work on from the top. I was looking at the turbo connections. Right under the air cleaner bracket is a clamp that looks like it's holding a short aluminum piece. If I remove that clamp, a mounting nut on a flange and maybe some other items can I detach the the headpipe, flange and all from the turbo and remove the headpipe that way? I'm sure I can get the rounded nut off if I can get to is with some tools. The rear section of the exhaust which was is good shape came right out. The clamp on the headpipe is going to come off ok too. Just this one nut's killing me. Is it easier to work on the system from under the car? Can't do that yet as my jack failed but I'm getting a new one next week. Any pointers or useful tips greatly appreciated. Everything is soaked in penetrant already. Thanks Much
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2008, 08:02 PM
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I'm going from memory, having done the exhaust about a month ago.

At one point I found it easier to go underneath, so there is some hope there when you're jack gets fixed. The penetrating oil is good as well as I've never had an issue getting those nuts off.

I did take off the heat shield and about everything else I could get to. But I don't know any tricks.

diesel don
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2008, 08:36 PM
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On exhaust header bolts heat is sometimes almost manditory. Ox/acytalene not a propane torch.
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2008, 11:52 AM
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I'm gonna try again today. The nuts up top that hold the headpipe to the turbo, I am thinking to replace them with SS nylock nuts. That be OK? One nut came off easliy. The second one is rounded pretty bad. The third looks like it'll be OK. The clamp underneath is going to be OK too. Always stayed away from exhaust work because I don't have cutting tools or a welder. This car is pretty simple though.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2008, 01:06 PM
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It's off! 1/2 inch socket works great jamming up a rounded 12 mm. Off to get new nuts. Thanks.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2008, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmmagow View Post
I'm gonna try again today. The nuts up top that hold the headpipe to the turbo, I am thinking to replace them with SS nylock nuts. That be OK? One nut came off easliy. The second one is rounded pretty bad. The third looks like it'll be OK. The clamp underneath is going to be OK too. Always stayed away from exhaust work because I don't have cutting tools or a welder. This car is pretty simple though.
If you are talking about where the exhaust housing of the turbocharger bolts up the the exhaust manifold the "Nylock" nylon part of the nuts will melt or burn. If you want to us a lock nut use an all metal one with Never-Seeze type compound on the threads.
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  #7  
Old 03-23-2008, 04:49 PM
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Brass nuts will survive at that location and not seize up as bad. Not expensive just sometimes hard to locate. Used for years.
I wonder today if stainless nuts might do the same thing? Those usually are pretty easy to get. Separate lock washer if you desire.
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