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  #31  
Old 03-27-2008, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
That brown line that goes over the red dipstick handle is the clear hard nylon line that turned brown over the years. Isn't that aka the IP return which meet up with the injector return line and the cigar hose at the 3 way banjo? The nylon line cannot be crimped without damaging it. What if I take the config of photo in post #16 and add a bolt and washer to the hanging open banjo to close it off? Would that work to test the IP bypass valve?
Yep, that's exactly the line we're talking about.

Anything that you can use to close that line.........and allow the system to build pressure........will do the job.

Yes, crimping it is out of the question.


Also, see if you can pump the primer and get the bypass valve to rattle.............or does the fuel just flow right past the bypass valve and out the open banjo fitting?
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  #32  
Old 03-27-2008, 06:53 PM
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I'll see if I can give that a try tomorrow.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #33  
Old 03-27-2008, 06:55 PM
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I'll see if I can give that a try tomorrow.
I'll be away all day tomorrow.........so, I won't be able to follow up with you until the evening.

The bypass valve is a serious possibility as the culprit at this point. If it won't rattle and just allows fuel to pass as you pump the primer..........that's the problem.
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  #34  
Old 03-27-2008, 06:59 PM
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What ???? Both of you are quitting in the middle of this mystery ?
Geez... I want my money back...
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  #35  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Geez... I want my money back...
..........what money??

...........you ain't got no money.
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  #36  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I'll be away all day tomorrow.........so, I won't be able to follow up with you until the evening.

The bypass valve is a serious possibility as the culprit at this point. If it won't rattle and just allows fuel to pass as you pump the primer..........that's the problem.
No problem, it's not my daily driver and it's parked in a safe place. It'd be great if that's the culprit. Is it a ball and spring check valve? Why would it rattle? Do you have a link to a pic?
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  #37  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
What ???? Both of you are quitting in the middle of this mystery ?
Geez... I want my money back...
Send me your paypal id and password and I'll send your refund.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
...you ain't got no money.
THAT is why I need it Back !!!
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  #39  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
No problem, it's not my daily driver and it's parked in a safe place. It'd be great if that's the culprit. Is it a ball and spring check valve? Why would it rattle? Do you have a link to a pic?
Yep, it's a ball and spring check valve.

Apparently, it must unseat the ball when you get the system up to sufficient pressure with the primer pump. I've never checked it personally.

The pic is in the manual. But, it's very easy to remove. Just follow the line to the IP and remove the bolt that secures the banjo. The bolt has the check valve built into it.
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  #40  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Send me your paypal id and password and I'll send your refund.
And the password !!! Cute ...why don't I just post it here in the thread ?
LOL
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  #41  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
And the password !!! Cute ...why don't I just post it here in the thread ?
.........sure, that'll be fine..........faster that way.
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  #42  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yep, it's a ball and spring check valve.

Apparently, it must unseat the ball when you get the system up to sufficient pressure with the primer pump. I've never checked it personally.

The pic is in the manual. But, it's very easy to remove. Just follow the line to the IP and remove the bolt that secures the banjo. The bolt has the check valve built into it.
I took the fuel sender out so I can vacuum out the 2 gallons of fuel to replace the leaky hose at the bottom of the tank. I checked the sender and found the reserve light contacts not working (I had cleaned the sender last summer and it was working then). Upon disassembly I found the contacts gummed up with the same black algae crap. Maybe this crap is keeping the ball from seating? Or maybe I didn't pump enough? Anyway I'm gonna pump more first and listen with a long screw driver as a stethosscope and see if I hear anything. If that don't work then I'll close the banjo.
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  #43  
Old 03-27-2008, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Maybe this crap is keeping the ball from seating?
...........only if you don't have any fuel filters in the system.........
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  #44  
Old 03-27-2008, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I took the fuel sender out so I can vacuum out the 2 gallons of fuel to replace the leaky hose at the bottom of the tank. I checked the sender and found the reserve light contacts not working (I had cleaned the sender last summer and it was working then). Upon disassembly I found the contacts gummed up with the same black algae crap. Maybe this crap is keeping the ball from seating? Or maybe I didn't pump enough? Anyway I'm gonna pump more first and listen with a long screw driver as a stethosscope and see if I hear anything. If that don't work then I'll close the banjo.
The noise you are listening for is vaguely like a grinding noise. When you pump the hand pump it slowly pushes the air out of the system and makes no noticeable or characteristic noise. Then, when the injection pump, filter, and all the lines are more or less "solid" the check valve chatters as you continue to pump. I usually pump it for a significant time, like another 50 strokes, when it is making the noise as the air on the injection pump/high pressure side of the system is pretty difficult to drag out of the high sides of loops. There just isn't that kind of flow velocity in all the parallel paths. I have no experience with the "new" hand pumps. But with the old ones there was no real penalty from pumping longer. Other than the skin on your fingers being rubbed off if you don't use a cloth to protect your skin.

The new ones don't have the hand pump at all. I just replaced the filters in my 1999 E300D TurboDiesel. You prime the system by cranking the engine. Even after filling the filter with fuel before putting it in, this still took several 30 second cranking sessions to get the engine to fire.

Good luck. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #45  
Old 03-27-2008, 10:02 PM
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Funola: Please let me know how you are doing.....I am reading your thread with much interest. Please make sure you report your progress to the end at which point you are hopefully running. You have me on suspense.

Are my following statements true or false......

The test of the entire fuel delivery is the appearance of equal amounts of bubble free fuel at a high pressure and slow flow rate at the cracked nuts by the injectors???

If this test proves true then lift pump, IP, filters should support a start condition upon cranking??

Assuming the Injectors are good, good glow plug system, copious amounts of air, engine compression above 220 psi per cyl then a cold start should occur??
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