[QUOTE=leathermang;1815157]I have never seen so many crazy statements from one person. You don't read your own posts?

First you argue for changing out all the orings... which is fine ....

But then you claim that it is too much trouble to take the system apart enough to flush the items individually. No, I said the likely hood of getting dirt and contaminates in them is high unless your in a sterile environment

THAT IS WHEN YOU FLUSH THEM... WHEN YOU HAVE THEM APART TO INSTALL THE ORINGS... Them remove these parts totally from the car and do it right.

The Factory Shop manual shows how to flush them in situ... IN PLACE... you really ought to read it sometime...

I wish if I had one. Are these still available?

You have been so nice to me that I think I will just mail mine to you...
What is your mailing address ?

If this is a genuine MB manual, shouldn't you want to keep it? These are supposedly getting hard to find! The flushing instructions I read that came with a kit were a PITA! I thought it would be easier to wrap a cotton ball to a piece of THHN covered copper wire, dip it in the flush and pull it through the hose! Or just remove these parts.

It is the MB paper manual ... and I won't be mailing THAT to you... I thought after your statement about being glad we lived so far apart you would think twice about giving me your address.... I might mail an EPA agent to your door...
LOL

There really are not many sections of this system to flush. The manual says to take the two hoses loose at the TXValve...and flush forward on both.. perhaps at the same time as they show how to convert the Txvalve you will be replacing as a fitting to access both those hoses from inside the car.
Hoses are made up of multiple layers typically... so any snags inside would sure catch a lot of cotton.... that is about the last thing I would put into there...
The flushing instructions which the dealerships are supposed to follow use a setup which cleans the flush as it is recovered.... so they have both ends connected to the machine....then wait until the flush coming out of the hoses is clean.... then they cap them until they finish with the other stuff...
We are going to waste a little flush not having that machine..but cleanliness is the most important thing long range.

Yeah, the cleanliness part is fully understandable here! I was joking about the cotton, but the directions I read about pouring Flush solvent into the lines and swishing it around or some of the other suggestions about cleaning and I thought, "this crap kit MUST be from China"!

I have several paper manuals for my Benz's but nothing for the AC system. I would get a copy if I found one since I have the body manuals and engine manuals as well as maintenace service interval manuals. got lucky with those on Ebay!

I would not be posting my address in the forums, that's for sure! What's your take on Sangamo AC compressors?

Well, on the swishing around... if you have the condensor out that is the best way to get the flush and stuff out... being able to use gravity to help get all the stuff out... but that is a lot more work and I believe that the proper flush fluid pushed through with nitrogen will get the job done if done enough times... Warning... you really have to have the pressure side of your nitrogen regulator valves ( need to the two valve regulator system.. in fact there is one designed for flushing ... I think that 3 to 5 lbs max should be used for blowing the fluid out...
I am not familiar with that brand compressor....

I've heard of Sangamo, but not in AC compressors. Sangamo made electrical accessories and Current transformers and meters for measuring electrical current draw, like the ones you have on your house. Also for industrial service.

If you come across another one of those AC service manuals from Mercedes Benz and for Mercedes Benz's from mine's era, let me know. I want one of those and I'll buy it from you.

I can probably find dozens of hen's teeth first...people fight over those things... I hope to scan and post at least the type one section of the book... and the diagnostic flow chart.
But I can't if my time is taken up protecting people from HC refrigerant promoters... they are everywhere you know...
LOL

Touche'

This won't work. Dye won't come out the leaks unless it gets to them, and the dye must be carried by the refrigerant. No refrigerant means no dye migration and no detection.

You are correct. I missed that because I am just automatically against dye usage and went for the other physics problems with using it...

I know a liquid dye won't work, but what about a dye gas? I never thought of such a thing untill I saw it online. It turns colorful at the leak source, clings to the outside of the metals where a leak is detected. I should have been a little clearer and I'll post later where I found this once I find it again, but the idea was finding the leaks with a non toxic non flammable alternative to R22.

I think I may have found this on the Duracool, Envirosafe or other websites.
I remember it being described as a gaseous stain. Interesting!

Ok, lets examine some of the physics involved.... you put it in as a gas...it swims around in the LIQUIFIED refrigerant and oil inside the system from the lower half ( optimum) of the condensor... through the filters ( silica and gravity) in the Rec/Dryer.... is in liquid up until it is expressed into the evaporator by the TXValve... where it extricates itself from the refrigerant/mix and becomes a separate gas again ... ?

Why does it not surprise me that it was found on one of those sites ?
Don't leave out Autofrost for sketchy concepts...

And why can you not keep in mind my description of the situation inside the evaporator housing ... where a gas detector works GREAT... but a residue type leak detector is impossible to see ?