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  #16  
Old 03-27-2008, 03:19 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Thats what I figured. I'd probably have to buy a new one and not re-manufactured right? I've heard bad things about re-man ones. I might do this as I really don't want to have to sit in my car in this summer's humidity and heat again...it was bad last summer. Especially if I get a nicer job after I am out of school, I can't be showing up sweating to death. Though, if I get a good job then I could afford to have the A/C redone....
I've just accepted that I'm going to have to spend $1000-1500 every several years if I want to have working AC. These systems are fine when they are working, but the tend to eat themselves every couple of 100K miles, then you might as well just "restore" the system and you are good to go (until next time).

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  #17  
Old 03-27-2008, 03:25 PM
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Is there a specific R4 compressor that our car requires? I was looking on this site: http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc? Under search put in "r4" and it gives several results.

Which one? (w126)

They're not all that expensive....so I may consider this project. I'd love to have A/C
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2008, 03:42 PM
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Hope springs eternal.... LOL

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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Can I expect that my compressor will still work if the system was R12 and was then recharged with R134a (by idiots) and then started stalling the engine at idle, I then cut the belt, and disabled the system. (4.5 years ago) However, I can grab the central shaft of the compressor and rotate it by hand easily and can feel it "pumping/compressing" on each rotation. Think its ok? Or will I clean out the system/recharge it and have it die 100 miles later? I'd love to have A/C, it just seems like a huge amount of hastle/expense for a potential-constant failure.
So you are saying that it was run with 134a... was causing the engine to stall..you disabled it by cutting the belt... but now that you can turn the shaft by hand you think it might have cured itself because you did not have a belt attached to it for four years ? Read that again and get back to me....LOL
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  #19  
Old 03-27-2008, 03:51 PM
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Ok... lets clear up some stuff...

Those Seltic UNIVERSAL compressors are universal replacements for regular shaped compressors...NOT for our Hockey Puck on Steroids looking Delco R-4.

So the question is still whether it is possible and worth it to do the plumbing and adjustable holding fixture on the side of our engine to switch over to a reliable modern type compressor...
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  #20  
Old 03-27-2008, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
So you are saying that it was run with 134a... was causing the engine to stall..you disabled it by cutting the belt... but now that you can turn the shaft by hand you think it might have cured itself because you did not have a belt attached to it for four years ? Read that again and get back to me....LOL
You do have a point....I just don't want to spend $200+ on a compressor. But if I do end up doing the A/C, I will.

Yes it was essentially all based on "hope"
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #21  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:04 PM
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No one WANTS to spend $200 on a compressor.
but yes, if you redo your AC system I think it will be well worth starting with a new one...
Think about it this way... how much would the interest alone on a new car cost you per month ?
A new AC compressor at $200 now sounds like a BARGAIN !!!!
Right ?
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  #22  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:11 PM
mrhills0146
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Is there any way to clean out the evap on a W123 short of disassembly of the interior?

I have seen pics of an evap R&R on a W123 and I am not prepared to tackle that - no way, Jose!!
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  #23  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:16 PM
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Yes, cleaning it out is very different from an R and R....
I think one has to be a masochist to take the whole dash apart for any reason... just set the car on fire if it comes down to that.... one of our forum members on the East coast...a student I think ... did it twice in a row.... took pics.... should be in the archives.... not for the weak at heart...
DMorrison cleaned his ..and did good pics... search the archives.
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  #24  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:27 PM
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I'll temper this by saying I'm only a back-yard A/C tech., ... been through a few successfully but I'm no expert.

I wouldn't write off the system for stalling the car at idle, sounds bad, but if the compressor turns smoothly by hand it could simply be the fluids in it, perhaps overcharged, or too-much oil? Possibly the evap is not absorbing enough heat and the system is returning liquid? Is there a freeze-stat in the 123?

If you know what refrigerant is in there, and that it is not contaminated (moisture will kill R-12, don't know what happens with R-134A), I'd start by running gauges on the high/low sides and see what it indicates.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Can I expect that my compressor will still work if the system was R12 and was then recharged with R134a (by idiots) and then started stalling the engine at idle, I then cut the belt, and disabled the system. (4.5 years ago) However, I can grab the central shaft of the compressor and rotate it by hand easily and can feel it "pumping/compressing" on each rotation. Think its ok? Or will I clean out the system/recharge it and have it die 100 miles later?

I'd love to have A/C, it just seems like a huge amount of hastle/expense for a potential-constant failure.
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  #25  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:28 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
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Removing the dash

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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I think one has to be a masochist to take the whole dash apart for any reason... just set the car on fire if it comes down to that.... .
I thought that was regular maintenance.
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  #26  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:30 PM
mrhills0146
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I do not see any possible way to get at that SOB evaporator w/o disassembling the dash, but I could be, and very much hope to be, WRONG.

Have searched archives and can't find postings on cleaning evap without removing dash.
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  #27  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
I thought that was regular maintenance.
In reading the list of things you have done...both on purpose and just to get back to zero from accidents... I can see how you , of all people, would feel that way....

Mr. Hills... don't give up... it is possible...
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  #28  
Old 03-27-2008, 04:59 PM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
No one WANTS to spend $200 on a compressor.
but yes, if you redo your AC system I think it will be well worth starting with a new one...
Think about it this way... how much would the interest alone on a new car cost you per month ?
A new AC compressor at $200 now sounds like a BARGAIN !!!!
Right ?
I have other issues on the car I want to fix too though, and I don't have endless $$ for it....I have to restrain my Hatterasyndrome as much as I can...

If I do end up fixing the A/C I will do it right, no worries there. I complain in the begining, but always end up fixing it to the fullest $$ when I end up doing the repair.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #29  
Old 03-27-2008, 05:00 PM
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Mr. Hills,
We may have different definitions of this dash thing.... you will have to take out the glove compartment... but that is not too hard... probably need to take out the passenger seat unless you are a skinny short little guy... but what is needed to get to a position to clean it is very very different from what is necessary to take it out and replace it... not fun , mind you, but doable compared to the R and R....and very necessary once every two decades on these cars....
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  #30  
Old 03-27-2008, 05:06 PM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I'll temper this by saying I'm only a back-yard A/C tech., ... been through a few successfully but I'm no expert.

I wouldn't write off the system for stalling the car at idle, sounds bad, but if the compressor turns smoothly by hand it could simply be the fluids in it, perhaps overcharged, or too-much oil? Possibly the evap is not absorbing enough heat and the system is returning liquid? Is there a freeze-stat in the 123?

If you know what refrigerant is in there, and that it is not contaminated (moisture will kill R-12, don't know what happens with R-134A), I'd start by running gauges on the high/low sides and see what it indicates.
Well, when I went ahead and disabled the system, if I left it off (no compressor use) for a while it would run, get cold, then start gettng warmer and warmer until there was no cooling going on, but the compressor always ran smoothly. Part of the idle stalling thing may have been due to a vastly over tightened rack damper bolt....because sometimes it would stall on its own without the A/C in operation. I'm wondering if maybe a good flush of the system + new receiver dryer and expansion valve would get it going again. Maybe with a charge of Freeze 12 and synthetic oil. Do you know of any place that would just draw vacuum and charge it up if I got it all set up to that point?

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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