Poll: Does your A/C work or not? - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#61 03-28-2008, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spugeddy

Can everyone put the dollars they have put into their A/C systems while you are replying...

My compressor seized, and I cut the belt off... It looks like if I pay someone I would be looking at $1500-1800? Does that sound right?

I think I spent about $1500 the last time my system seized, new compressor, dryer, expansion valve, system flush, and a R-12 charge. There is a bit of labor involved to do it correctly.

pawoSD · #62 03-28-2008, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

System didn't work when purchased vehicle.
System converted to 134A before I owned vehicle. System was empty, filled system with 134a worked for 2 days. compressor pressure was low, at time was told compressor was questionable. Then got warm again.
In process of replacing Compressor, Expansion valve, Drier. Hopefully the condenser doesn't need replacement. If it does well... I guess I'll be pulling the dash....

So far parts $300....

The condensor is on the front of the car, the evaporator is what is inside the dash.

SwampYankee · #63 03-28-2008, 10:32 AM

The A/C definitely doesn't work, haven't even looked into it yet. I don't really know how the ACC is supposed to function but the defroster only blows out hot air so I suspect something is out of whack with it. The Bi-Level, Auto Hi and Auto Lo will vary the temperature of the air coming out (although not cold).

pawoSD · #64 03-28-2008, 10:33 AM

Here's a question....I read the diesel giant page, and am capable of doing all that stuff, however, I have no means to pull vacuum on the system nor charge it. Is it possible to add the oil and charge it with the individual cans (of Freeze 12) etc... myself? Or to use the "oil charge" can offered by the makers of freeze 12? How would I measure the quantity of the charge?

Is there another method to make sure the moisture is out of the system and then charge it?

I suppose I could search for a shop that would pull vacuum/charge it for me once I had done the physical replacement/repairs and added the oil. think this is a good way to go? I wonder what that would cost, and if they would use Freeze 12 or even better: R12

#65 03-28-2008, 10:38 AM

The problem with doing half the work yourself is; who's responsible if it doesn't work correctly when the shop is done? They are not going to take responsibility for your work.

Good luck finding a shop that will touch a "freeze 12" system.

#66 03-28-2008, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Is there another method to make sure the moisture is out of the system and then charge it?

Not if you want the compressor to last more than a few months!

pawoSD · #67 03-28-2008, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

The problem with doing half the work yourself is; who's responsible if it doesn't work correctly when the shop is done? They are not going to take responsibility for your work.

Good luck finding a shop that will touch a "freeze 12" system.

True...but do you think there's any better luck finding a shop that will do R12? I surely don't want R134a in there....

pawoSD · #68 03-28-2008, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhills0146

Not if you want the compressor to last more than a few months!

I figured....hmmm...if I did manage to get a vacuum pump and pull vacuum on the system, would I then be able to charge it myself successfully? How would I do that if all I had were compressed cans of Freeze 12/Freeze 12 oil charge cans...? Would it be possible to do accurately/correctly?

It looks like a vac pump would be easy to procure through ebay....is that all there is to it? Attach pump to one of the A/C system ports and let it run for a while?

leathermang · #69 03-28-2008, 10:57 AM

There simply are not any shortcuts to a long lived well working reasonable cost AC system. You have to follow some gov rules, you have to know and follow several PHYSICS rules....
No shortcuts that I know of.

#70 03-28-2008, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

True...but do you think there's any better luck finding a shop that will do R12? I surely don't want R134a in there....

My indy doesn't have any problem doing R-12, he works on lots of old cars that people don't want hacked up. Do you have a good indy benz shop around?

leathermang · #71 03-28-2008, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

It looks like a vac pump would be easy to procure through ebay....is that all there is to it? Attach pump to one of the A/C system ports and let it run for a while?

Now you are starting to cook with gas...

There are a few little rules...but all are common sense... you flush as best you can... try to cap off that item while you flush the other items.... you wait until the last second to install the new reciever dryer... you keep it sealed and closed until everything else is done.... you use the correct Nylog and new proper orings..... and you vacuum for as long as you can.... the old timer's I knew simply put it on and left it overnight... it can't be TOO dry... LOL
Then you purge the line from the can to the fitting...then tighten down...

pawoSD · #72 03-28-2008, 11:06 AM

Here's a possibly crazy question, does the engine's vac pump procure enough vacuum to do the job on the A/C system? I read online you can use a car's vacuum supply to do it. Would this accomplish the same task...or is an electric unit better?

When charging from cans, how do you know when you've put in the right amount of oil/freon? Any good method to use?

JimFreeh · #73 03-28-2008, 11:16 AM

[quote=pawoSD;1807084]Here's a possibly crazy question, does the engine's vac pump procure enough vacuum to do the job on the A/C system? I read online you can use a car's vacuum supply to do it. Would this accomplish the same task...or is an electric unit better?

quote]

I've made a vacuum pump using a refridgerator compressor, silver soldered the fittings on. First one lasted over 25 years. Pulls right down to 29.5

Also made a recovery system. Couple of inline filters and an empty propane bottle. Works well.

The venturi type that use compressed air will not pull down far enough.

Jim

Jeremy5848 · #74 03-28-2008, 12:03 PM

A/C works on all three cars. Had to have both the 123 and 124 repaired recently. The mechanic had a hard time finding the leak in the 123, turned out to be in the big hose that runs across the front of the engine. The 124 had a leaky expansion valve. I repaired the push-button assembly in the 123. We've been fortunate to have no problems with compressors or evaporators.

Jeremy

rrgrassi · #75 03-28-2008, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Here's a possibly crazy question, does the engine's vac pump procure enough vacuum to do the job on the A/C system? I read online you can use a car's vacuum supply to do it. Would this accomplish the same task...or is an electric unit better?

When charging from cans, how do you know when you've put in the right amount of oil/freon? Any good method to use?

Get your self a set of good guages. Also, use a Hancock Ind compressor. Get the Frigiquite oil from your local BG rep, not through Diesel Giant. ($11.00 vs. $40) After you mount the compressor, pour the oil into the metal suction line that is between the driver side fender and compressor. turn the compressor by hand or by bumping the starter.

Use a good vacuum pump, either bought rented or made from an old fridge compressor.

I flushed my entire system using methanol. Cleaned everything out really well and dried without left over residue.

View Poll Results: About your A/C?
My A/C works great and always has.	19	13.87%
My A/C works great but I had to repair it to get it that way	44	32.12%
My A/C is a R134a conversion and only sort-of works	12	8.76%
My A/C is dead and has never worked (don't plan on repairing)	12	8.76%
My A/C died (locked up) during my ownership of the car	4	2.92%
My A/C is dead but I want to repair it	46	33.58%
Voters: 137. You may not vote on this poll