Thanks to the folks that helped me the last couple of days with questions about the car I just bought. It's a 1990 300 D 2.5 turbo with 215K on it. I brought it to a local guy who does MB work and had him go over it. The motor runs strong, doesn't leak any oil. What it does need is the passenger side motor mount, and serpentine belt. A couple nicks here and there, but it looks good. I'll be asking alot of questions, probably stupid ones, but bear with me. Here's one-it has a 602(?) motor, anything to watch for? And these have different frame styles-W124(?) I have a Ford 7.3 IDI, and do all my own work on that; but I have room in there. How much work can I do on my own on this? Also, the mechanic said it's not advisable to cut the rotors on these when you do the brakes--every 2nd time you do the pads you should replace the rotors--is that true? Thanks

Excellent purchase.

Yes, you have the W124 chassis and the OM602 engine. Very little trouble from the 602. Basic oil changes will keep it healthy. The lifters can sometimes develop a tick. Synthetic oil is strongly recommended.

The general consensus is that we just replace the rotors rather than attempt to cut them. There is nothing that prohibits cutting the rotors, however. The cost of cutting them is about 1/2 of a new rotor, so, most opt to purchase new. There is always a risk that the cutting operation results in a runout.........and then you're out both the cost of the cut and the cost of a new rotor.

any recommended sites that are good for parts? I need a drivers side headlight lens, amongst other little doodads.

We always recommend that you utilize the sponsor of the forum to obtain parts. Just press the "buy parts" tab above.

If you don't find the part you need online, call the telephone number and speak to Phil about any M/B part. Not every part is listed online.........only the WorldPac parts.

Some parts are dealer only items. But, Phil can obtain those as well.

At the top of this page is a tab that says
BUY PARTS
Go there.


EDIT: Great minds. . .

__________________
Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

Special order parts come very quickly from Phil!

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

But now you will be infected with the diesel bug .

Do buy new rotors. If you want to really make them last, do a cryogenic nitrogen bath on them brand new. It changes the molecular surface and it will really wear a lot longer. No difference in braking. If you want dust free front wheels get some Porterfield low dust brake pads. I just have to clean my wheels once a year now.

Oh, yeah, any picts?

Regards

Run-Em

__________________
1983 300SD - SPARKY THE DIESEL
2004 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro Roadster
1999 SLK - aka - LIL RED
1956 Chevy Nomad - aka - REAL MAD
1940 Ford dbl dr. Deluxe - aka - ORANGE U GLAD
1998 Kawasaki Nomad bike --

I'll get some pics up soon. This is my first diesel car; I've owned a '97 powerstroke, '88 IDI, and my current ride is a '91 f350 7.3 IDI, no turbo. No computers either And I've always done my own work, so learning how the Benz is set up should be fun. Just no room in the compartment. Do you have to pump the oil out of these to change it? I looked in the DIY section, and they showed a guy using a topsider? Can I change mine from underneath?

You can change it from beneath with the drain plug.

The difference is that the car is lower than your PSD ;~) so you won't be able to sit upright.

Really though, the oil filter is serviced from above, there is (should be) a belly-pan beneath the engine, so using a topsider or equivalent makes it so much more convenient.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

[QUOTE=RUN-EM;1806633].

If you want to really make them last, do a cryogenic nitrogen bath on them brand new. It changes the molecular surface and it will really wear a lot longer. No difference in braking.

O.K.
Please detail the Liquid Nitrogen Bath procedure.
(Yeah,the neighbors are REALLY going to have something to puzzle over now?)

quickster,

You will enjoy the W124.
While you're under there why not be prepared to replace both MMs?
'Take a look at the Transmission mount also.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

[QUOTE=compress ignite;1806670][QUOTE=RUN-EM;1806633].

If you want to really make them last, do a cryogenic nitrogen bath on them brand new. It changes the molecular surface and it will really wear a lot longer. No difference in braking.

O.K.
Please detail the Liquid Nitrogen Bath procedure.
(Yeah,the neighbors are REALLY going to have something to puzzle over
----------------------------------------------------------------

My nitrogen bath came from For My Merc_des.com. You add the e. Bought new rotors from them and had them treated. Bath entails soaking/freezing rotors in liquid nitrogen...nasty stuff...for about 6 to 12 hours and then slowly allowing them to return to room temp. If it is good enough for NASCAR it ought to be good enough for me. Changes the surface molecular structure, only very small particles of surface can break off, and allows a really hard wearing surface. Oh, yeah, bought his wheel wax also. Keeps the wheels extremely clean/good looking and really seems to help the wear on the Benz rotors. Did this about 50 thou miles ago and the rotors still look like new....no wear showing .... no ridge on edge of rotor. Well worth it in my opinion.

Regards

Run-Em

__________________
1983 300SD - SPARKY THE DIESEL
2004 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro Roadster
1999 SLK - aka - LIL RED
1956 Chevy Nomad - aka - REAL MAD
1940 Ford dbl dr. Deluxe - aka - ORANGE U GLAD
1998 Kawasaki Nomad bike --

run em,

Thank You

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128