Houston, this is Odyssey {China}, we have a problem!!!
 

I thought I would make a quick separate thread out of this, but will also add it to my China thread. {my China diary} :o
Quick review: Yesterday was driving down the freeway when cars started swerving in front of me. Something huge in the middle left lane, so I went right, got around the monstrosity, but slammed over something metallic that whammed the bottom of the car violently and blew both rear hubbies off!
Well, I didn't put China up on ramps today, but before I went to work I crawled kinda under the sides and just gave a cursory inspection. It wasn't hard to spot! :eek::eek:
This is the drivers side rear trailing arm:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China280.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China279.jpg

Well, I certainly see the impact spot. Well, I can't fit under the car so I just stuck the camera under there as far as I could and snapped a couple other angles. Those are the ones that show the extent of the damage, and it ain't pretty:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China272.jpg
No big deal you say? Well, it gets worse.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China273.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China277.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...D/China276.jpg

Dang!! :cry3:

So, do you think there is any way I could go to some type of muffler shop, or similar welder and have that thing shored up, strengthened and make sure the crack/split is stopped, or is the awful job of replacing {and buying} the rear trailing arm in my future?
I know it will be easy to say "nope, you need to replace the trailing arm", but I really am hoping beyond hope a competent welder could handle this.
Honest opinions would be most appreciative.
Still driving her.......:eek:

Could be welded....
 

If you can find a good welder. Should be fine.

Spare parts are at Pick and Pull. Go south on spur 348 about a mile past 30. Exit right towards Jefferson and make loop back over 348 to east side access/frontal road. Go to top of hill, make a left, circle around, hard right, and you are there. But noticed Friday they are moving out some of the Benz section to make more Volvo room or maybe add more/fresher Mercedes. So, you might wanna make a move on anything you want over there.

Regards

Run-Em

I would think that you could have this welded up. it didn't go through your trailing arm, but ouch what a hit!! When you do find someone to weld this for you, also get some car body undercoat and prime plus undercoat that weld so the weather/rust doesn't get to it.;)

How's the wheel look? Does it look like it is out of alignment? I ask because that is a pretty good wallop it received. The rear suspension is non adjustable, so if it looks like the tire is off, then your going to have to replace it. Otherwise, fill it up with weld and keep an eye on it for future cracking. FWIW- In my opinion, I believe you can drive it like that with a window that size and not affect the structural integrity.

I think I'd weld it for now but I have a MIG. If you do have it welded I'd look for a replacement arm. Don't think you'll have to worry to much about rust in texas you lucky guy. Come to think of it, you should just drive it up here to Vermont so I can buy it, I mean fix it. :)

Yep no reason that can't be welded. They just need to disc-grind the whole area down to bare metal and form a curved steel patch to fit. Then as mentioned above undercoat the heck out of it.

Dang Jimmy! That could've been nasty if it had decided to go up thru the floor! Make sure that arm hasnt been bent out of shape, and the mounting points haven't been damaged, otherwise that hole is fixable.

Damn! you're lucky that missed the oil and trans pans! Get the alignment checked on it soon, otherwise you're going to be wearing out tires.

watch out for undercoating in the cans most of the stuff is overpriced poop that will make it rustout. You can get epoxy primer in a can now. Then top coat it if you want. When this cures a light coating of bar and chain oil and you'll never see rust, especially in Texas.

I would get the alignment checked before spending any time on repairs. It is is misshaped from this the only cure is replacing the arm(s), imho.

If the alignment is fine I would not hesitate to fix it.

Tom W

If the alingment is ok and you decide to have it welded, make sure they drill stop holes at the edge of the cracks so they don't continue to spread under your patch.

Max (Run'Em) is right -- Pick'n'Pull had several 123s last week. That is NOT where I saw the hubbies, though, darn it!

I can see welding it, but I can also see replacing it. We just sent trailing arms to whunter because one of his was cracked about halfway through. He's got that whole rust-belt thing going, though, so probably not a comparable situation.

As for cost, I'm not sure it's cheaper to weld than replace, especially at DFW welder prices. Having just replaced the entire rear end -- twice! -- on the 300SD (and pulling one apart to send trailing arms to Roy), I can honestly say the replacement process is not really that bad, especially considering what you've already done to her.

Anyway, keep us posted and for heaven's sake, be careful!

Sunny

Wow, that's an amazing hit! Looks exactly like the profile of a piece of inch and a half or so square steel tubing.

This is where you're glad those cars are so overbuilt. It'd be interesting to see what the same impact would do to a 'normal' car.

Ouch !!!!

You should be able to get your welder to pull out the dent somewhat with a slidehammer to get the old metal close to weld up then, shape a new piece of similar thick ness to 'fishplate' over the whole area. The arm is of two-piece construction, imho the upper half would have to suffer some sort of deformity as well to put it out of alignment.