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Power windows
Hi everyone. I have a power window issue I am hoping I can get some info on. My pass side rear window has been, for some time, intermittent on roll up. It always goes down fine, but hesitant on roll up. This weekend I tried to lower it from the console with no luck, so I lowered it with the door switch. That was it, it would not go back up for anything. I swapped the switch from the other door, still no up. It would still move down though, till I finally bottomed it after messing with it for a while. Wouldn't you know I was out of town and had to pull the door panel, remove the glass from the regulator and block it up with a 2x4.
Anyone have some experience with these? Being that it still operates in one direction, I was positive it was the switch. What else do I need to look at? Could it be the console switch preventing the door switch from doing it's job? Thanks for any help.
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Brian 87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017 02 F350 Powerstroke 180K 05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K 08 Infiniti FX-35 40K 15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K 10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K |
#2
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Try the fuses
Though your fuses might look fine, if they are the metal kind, they're likely pitted. Replace ALL of your fuses, with the new copper ones. Doing so might cost you $12. The old pitted ones build up resistance, creating additional heat and other weird things to all of your electronics. Get RID of them. Replace them ALL.
Next, look for dirt in the switch holes. Sometimes stuff falls in there. Use a small vac or blower to blow it out. Though I know you said you tried a different switch, try a new one, see what happens. jeff |
#3
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No need to take door apart.
I'm having the same issue with the driver side rear window. I think it's a faulty ground.
FYI, carry another 12V source. I have one of those booster start packs I keep in the trunk. Pull the switch, the pins on opposite sides of the switch control up and down and go directly to the window motor. Attach the power +/- to opposite side holes. One way is up, reverse connections for down. If it works, motor is good. It's also easier than pulling the door panel, regulator, etc. No 2x4 needed if motor good. You could also do this with a lighter, power cord. Built in + and -. I use small alligator clips clipped into the holes. Charles Last edited by Cr from Texas; 03-31-2008 at 01:07 AM. Reason: typo |
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Good idea on diagnostics from Charles.
I found on mine that the switch would work, sometimes, with the door open but not closed. This indicated a wiring/short problem. The wires become quite brittle over time with all the opening and closing right at the bend for entering the door. I ended up pulling the trim piece on the b pillar to access the wires on that side of the door. I spliced in some new wire with solder & heat shrink and all is well. Once I cut the wire and pulled it out it was obvious where the problem was. If Charles' idea works to diagnose the problem (rules out switch and motor) then I would suspect wiring at the door as the problem.
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83 300d - 390k |
#5
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The window uses the same fuse and the same ground whether it is moving up or down. But the "up" and "down" wiring is different. Odds highly favor a partially broken wire, most likely from the door post to the door.
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After examining a wiring diagram, I see that the battery voltage passes thru the console switch before it arrives at the door switch. Since my console switch has been inoperative, I think I will start there. Does anyone know how the console switches come out, can you pry them out or does the console have to be removed?
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Brian 87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017 02 F350 Powerstroke 180K 05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K 08 Infiniti FX-35 40K 15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K 10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K |
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I'm not sure how yours is assembled. On a 123 chassis, you remove the ash tray brackets and that allows you to slide the console cover and switches toward the rear to release a pin in the back of the cover. Lift up and press switches out from below. They should pry out from the top but on a 123, you would probably damage the wood finish. This would also give you better access to the wiring and another trouble shooting method. On a 123, I would switch the rear door plug on the bad side to the working side to see if it works. If it works, the console switch needs to be cleaned (or replaced). If it doesn't, it's wiring.
Did you supply power to the window motor and confirm that it is good? Charles |
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Charles, since the window moves downward I figured the motor was good. I didn't try to power the connector as I was unsure which terminals were which. I now have a diagram, but I won't have any time to work on it till Saturday. Meanwhile I am arming myself with as much knowledge as I can.
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Brian 87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017 02 F350 Powerstroke 180K 05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K 08 Infiniti FX-35 40K 15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K 10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K |
#9
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If you can get to the console wiring it's easy to plug the rear windows into the opposite side switch (confirm condition of console switch - rear switch must be plugged in). That's where I started. Next was adding power directly to the motor. I'm not sure that one direction insures the opposite also works but you could be right. When you pull the door switch out. Look at the wiring: probably 5 wires. 3 bundled together come through the door. The other 2 go to the motor and those are the connectors to apply the external 12V. Reverse to change direction. Had you known - you'd have had that window up in 5 min. I've left mine unplugged so it can not be lowered until I fiure out the short, ground, etc.
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#10
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console switches
DM,
I assume you're working on the 124? There is a black plastic surround at the border between the shift lever surround and the Horizontal Wooden cover over the window switches...pry gently up (I like to use inexpensive plastic "Edged" spatula-like painter's tools you can get at HD.They don't mar the wooden finish.) Gently pull up the carpet covering the Center Console Tray...at the front you will see one Phillips screw,take it out and the wooden (Horizontal) cover over the window switches will pivot upwards on two (Invisible , until you remove it) Black Plastic Hooks that go into the Vertical Wooden Cover (A.C.,Radio).Once you have the wooden cover off the window switches just wiggle Gently out in an upwards direction.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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Thanks guys........CI, yes it's the 124, only Benz I own
I know I'll figure it out Sat with all the help. I'll post back, if I can find the thread by then!
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Brian 87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017 02 F350 Powerstroke 180K 05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K 08 Infiniti FX-35 40K 15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K 10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K |
#12
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If you haven't already, subscribe to this thread.
In the future under "Quick Links" you can show the threads you are subscribed to and link back to this one. There may be a better way, but that's how I do it. You could save this thread to your internet favorites also. |
#13
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Yes, the wiring to the door switch (and on to the motor) goes through the console switch. A bad console switch can cause the problem you are seeing.
Removing the console wood piece, as previously described, will expose all of the switches and allow you to unplug them one at a time. The switches can be swapped, taken apart (carefully!) and cleaned, replaced with used switches from a wrecking yard, or replaced with new switches. The W124 suffers especially from broken wires in the B-pillar. It is said that M-B used stranded wire with too heavy gauge individual strands; the strands gradually break after being bent back and forth (as the rear doors open and close) for many years. Since these breaks occur inside the insulation and outer plastic shell, they are difficult to locate. As has been previously said, the motor has only two terminals; reversing the (+) and (-) leads reverses the motor direction. So, if the motor goes "down" OK, the motor is OK and the wiring to the motor is OK, so the problem has to be after the fuse and before the motor -- in other words, the two switches and the wiring in between. Good luck -- let us know what you find out. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#14
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interesting!
i have the EXACT same issue - window goes down perfectly, but needs a pull to go up - i figured the motor was just on its way out, and it went down easy cause the weight of the window. I will investigate the wiring on mine as well hopefully i don't need the motor |
#15
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Quote:
To get a window up when a wire is broken, you can remove the door switch, then jumper the "down" wire to the switch plug to the "up" wire from the switch plug to the motor. Then jumper the motor "down" wire (at the plug) to ground. If that works, you know that the motor and the wiring from the door switch to the motor is good. |
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