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#1
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89 190D 2.5 - 4th injector line spitting fuel
Greetings, eh?
I pulled into Calgary coming from Edmonton on Friday night and the car started to shudder. When I stopped and popped the hood, injector #4 was spitting fuel out the top. I loosened and re-tightened the line while the engine was hot, but it didn't help. I'm now back in Edmonton *without* my car (having parked it safely in Calgary) and I'm planning a trip back down this weekend to fix it. The trouble is, I want to get all of the parts I need in order so I don't have to do this trip twice. I've seen a few threads on this forum that recommend replacing the injector line only, so I plan on buying one of those: 1987 W124 200D Turbo w/ leaky fountain of an injector 1987 W124 300D Turbo w/ leaky fountain of an injector Injector line leak, what a mess! Injector line leak, what a mess!!! Injector line Flares leak at injector-any fix for this? Injector line Flares leak at injector-any fix for this? I've seen some mention of replacing the braided injector return lines too (I had no idea those were for return - man, I love the info I get from this forum). Since those lines aren't showing a leak, I don't think I want to touch them, but I'll bring some braided line just in case. Should I buy an injector as well, just in case? Is there *any* reason to suspect that a leaky injector line would be caused by a fouled injector? I don't want to spend money on extra parts if I can help it - especially if I can't return them. Thanks, everyone. I'll try to remember to let you know how it goes.
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
#2
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O.K. I just saw this
Check that you have all the Injector Line Clips installed properly.
(They keep the lines from clacking together and breaking...and they're usually cheap plastic,that ages not too well in all the engine heat...and exposure to petrochemicals.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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New prob: engine kicking with two new fuel lines
The line clips are missing, so I bought a three-line and two-line clip to hold them in place. They're not installed yet, but soon, soon.
This weekend, I replaced line #4, which resulted in line #1 leaking at the pump. I was lucky that Lone Star Mercedes in Calgary had a replacement line #1 in stock. So now I have two shiny new lines on my car, and I think I'll replace the rest. New question: when my car started, it wasn't too rough, but every so often, it "kicked" a little bit, like it was missing on the timing or something. I ran it to 2000 rpm and it smoothed out once the engine warmed up, which was great. I drove it around the block, determined that it stopped kicking, then headed to Red Deer (150 km away). When I stopped the car and started it again (with only about a five minute rest in between), it started kicking a little bit again, but once I got on the highway, it smoothed out again. Once I got to Edmonton (another 150 km), it didn't seem to do it anymore, but I'm still concerned that something's wrong with my timing or my fuel-air mix. I don't know when my timing chain was changed last, so that's the *first* thing I'll be calling the shop for on Monday. Anyone know what could be causing this? The new fuel lines, perhaps? If I change them all, will it make a difference?
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
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"kicking"
The stumbling upon start-up after changing the fuel lines is understandable...
The IP is just "Bleeding" out all the air left from breaking the fuel system open, AND an air gap/pocket or two left over will cause the stumble.The IP is "Self Bleeding" ,that's why it corrected by itself. If air is causing the extended symptoms,you may have a problem with a fuel line connection (or fuel line cracks) between the fuel sock in the bottom of the tank and the IP. OR there's an air leak allowed between the hard metal fuel line capnut(s) and and Injector or the Delivery Valve of that line on the IP. Logically,If you had an air leak with a hard metal fuel line... you'd also have fuel leaking when the engine's running. YES,by all means check your Timing Chain wear/stretch (prudently every 133,000 kilometers) There are instructions for the DIY on this forum.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#5
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Thanks, compress.
I drove it quite a bit yesterday - it's about -2C here in sunny St. Albert. No idle problems, no kicking. Took it through Edmonton and out to Namao and back, which gave it a good city/highway run - it is running like a top. I'll inspect the IP and lines for any leakage, but I think I'm good. As for the timing chain, I can find *lots* of people talking about their timing chain on here, but I haven't seen a DIY article about changing the timing chain on an OM602. DieselGiant.com has a good walkthrough for a 617, but with no garage, and very little experience, actually *changing* one of these things scares the hell out of me. Fake edit: Is this the collection of links I'm looking for? Diesel Timing Chain LInk Thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/162071-diesel-timing-chain-thread.html#post1251434
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
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