My poor 300TD is demised, so I'm in the market. I was originally thinking of buying a "pretty good" 300D, since we need another car soon (and the rented Mazda, well, the less said about that the better).

But today I drove a 1987 300SDL and boy, what a car. Seems to be in really nice shape; no rust, starts right up, no blowby, transmission shifts really nicely, finds reverse quickly. Almost everything works. I'm taking it to my mechanic on Monday for a PPI, and that will play a large factor in my decision.

It seems like I'm potentially trading more flexible cargo space for a nicer ride; an arguably more reliable engine for a smoother one; potentially buying more trouble with a greater number of gizmos. What other tradeoffs might I be making?

(If I get it, I think I'll call it "Duke," after the Duke of New York, in "Escape from New York," and maybe hang chandeliers on the front like his car )

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2003 E320 wagon, ~80k, "Sputnik"
1987 300 SDL, ~160k, "The Pimp Daddy" (sold April 2010)
1984 300 TD, ~200k, "Das Boot" (Demised March 2008)

Yup you are hooked

Of all my 126's the SDL is absolutely the best riding/traveling car. The SD is nice but noisy - the SE is a great ride if you like 14 mpg.

My SDL originated from Portland at Rasmussen's MB

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

Adjusting valves and changing SLS fluid for free time.

Don't forget the cooling system pressure test. Pinch the upper radiator hose when the engine has sat overnight. It shouldn't feel like there is residual pressure in the cooling system. Residual pressure could mean head cracks.

A typical PPI might not reveal the early stages of head cracks and I doubt there will be enough time for the engine to cool completely while the car is at the shop.

Having the head replaced is about $2500. It might not be a deal killer.

Sixto
87 300D

yes do check that hose when sat overnight and also it should be checked when its running. When its running at operating temp the upper hose should be soft, if its stiff AVOID IT!! The temp SHOULD NOT BE AT THE 100*C mark when its idling or driven it should be at
80*C or a click above 80*C , why these OM603 should never run at 100*C, Well these aluminum head has a possibility to crack when it's driven or idling @ 100*C for some time, do some research, do these tests and do dont make a $3000 mistake that i made...

thx

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Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

Until I recently replaced my radiator, my SDL would idle in city traffic at 100*C or so in the summer. I would turn off the AC when it went near 115*C. I've had the car since new and never let it get above 120*C. In over 20 years, I've not had any head problems. The owner's manual states that the temp will go up when going up a grade or in city traffic. Of course, YOU don't know if the car that you are looking at has been run with the temp in the red area which would be VERY bad. So, good luck. BY the way, you will love the car!

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Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback

Given the sensitivity to engine temps, consider the radiator to be a replacement item. If the plastic end tank fittings haven't cracked in 5 years, they're on borrowed time.

Sixto
87 300D

My radiator "plastic" upper hose fitting broke at almost exactly 20 years to the day that I took delivery. This, after only MB coolant and distilled water, changed every two years. Maybe good maintance does work, OR , again, I was lucky!

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Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback

I think the point of whoever initiated that recommendation is that even without proper cooling system maintenance, the plastic will last at least 5 years.

Sixto
87 300D

If I had the chance to get one at a good price in excellent shape, I'd not pass it up. While *theoretically* not as reliable as a 617 powered SD, with proper maintenance, either one should be just as reliable as the other. And the SDL has advantages over the SD.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

DITTO.

Have you bought it yet? If so, where are the pics?

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

LOL i tired racing with my fathers's 300SDL with my 300SD with my injection turn up to the max, and the result i lost ...

__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi