Where do most of the interior water leaks originate in a W123? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #16 04-07-2008, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

My wagon had a lot of water leaking into it at first. Replacing the seals in the sun roof seems to have stopped all of it for the time being. The windshield gasket is dry and cracked, so that will probably be next. I'll have to check the hinge drains.

I saw a very small snake, just like the larger ones plumbers use on Harbor Freight Tools' website. It's small enough to use for cleaning out the drains on these cars. I think someone else may have mentioned it before, but it seemed worth repeating.

It was JimmyL: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/207158-found-good-sunroof-drain-cleaner-post1757958.html

Looks like it will work great. I used an old speedometer cable for mine.

Dee8go · #17 04-07-2008, 09:21 AM

I suppose anything long, thin, and flexible would work okay.

lietuviai · #18 04-07-2008, 12:02 PM

I'm going to check on the seals today and try to vacuum out all the crud in the pockets and trunk. The seals themselves don't look dried out at all.
My floors surprisingly are still pristine. I haven't seen a spot of rust anywhere on the car other than where there are some deep scratches.

Chad300tdt · #19 04-07-2008, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lietuviai

I'm going to check on the seals today and try to vacuum out all the crud in the pockets and trunk. The seals themselves don't look dried out at all.
My floors surprisingly are still pristine. I haven't seen a spot of rust anywhere on the car other than where there are some deep scratches.

I was able to locate the point of entry on all my leaks by taking out all the carpets and sitting inside the car with a flashlight as my wife held the garden hose over the spots I asked her to. We started low and worked up until I saw trickles form. This is MUCH EASIER than waiting until the next rain and seeing all the leaks at once.

lietuviai · #20 04-07-2008, 12:08 PM

Right now the car sits under a blue tarp. I wanted the interior to dry out so I could start fresh on the leaks using Chad's method.

herring · #21 04-07-2008, 10:57 PM

I just got my rear window seal replaced, and the rust around that repaired.
Next up: the rust on the rear wheelwells caused by years of leaking.

lietuviai · #22 04-08-2008, 10:12 PM

I took care of one of the leaks today. I found the taillights were leaking so I pulled them and reversed the gaskets that run around them. Worked without the mess of any goo.
I saw a drip coming from under the package tray in the trunk so I guess the rear window seal is leaking.
Is there any way to fix the rear seal without removing the window? I really don't feel like pulling that window.

bgkast · #23 04-08-2008, 11:09 PM

If your rear seal is not cracked or hard I think you can have the window place apply a sealer between the glass and seal. Your floors may look good, but so did mine before I started chipping at the asphalt...

At least chip the asphalt away from the ribs to get rid of any water pockets.

lietuviai · #24 04-08-2008, 11:14 PM

So does that mean someone else will need to pull the glass or can the sealer be applied with the glass in place?

Chad300tdt · #25 04-08-2008, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lietuviai

So does that mean someone else will need to pull the glass or can the sealer be applied with the glass in place?

If there are no concerns with rust around the window seal area, you can seal it yourself without removing the glass or seal.

Get some MB Window Sealing Compound, part number 001 989 31 20 and flatten the tip of the tube so you can slip it between the glass and gasket and run a bead all the way around and clean up any excess that comes out.

Use butyl sealant to seal any leaks between the gasket and the metal.

lietuviai · #26 04-08-2008, 11:26 PM

I don't imagine there could be any serious rust if any at all. I haven't seen any telltale rust streaks anywhere. Would just any butyl seal work?

Chad300tdt · #27 04-09-2008, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lietuviai

I don't imagine there could be any serious rust if any at all. I haven't seen any telltale rust streaks anywhere. Would just any butyl seal work?

Here's the kind I used, but I think any formulation will work. At first I thought it was a bummer that I could only find it in a caulk gun tube, but after running a few long beads with it, I prefer the caulk gun.

http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Black-Butyl-Rubber-Sealant/dp/B000WU1HR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1207743282&sr=8-4

lietuviai · #28 04-09-2008, 12:12 PM

I like the caulk gun idea because you can apply the adhesive under pressure which will get in deep where it needs to go.

Grdenko · #29 04-09-2008, 01:54 PM

well my brother got all 4 of his door seals replaced and theres still water in the back, so dont bother with that i guess. the windows only seem to leak when the car is being washed.

how about those vents behind the rear windows, where do those go? i always wondered about them.

Chad300tdt · #30 04-09-2008, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grdenko

well my brother got all 4 of his door seals replaced and theres still water in the back, so dont bother with that i guess. the windows only seem to leak when the car is being washed.

how about those vents behind the rear windows, where do those go? i always wondered about them.

That's where the rear sunroof drains let water out.

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