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  #16  
Old 04-07-2008, 03:45 PM
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Parts are harder to come by for the 115 than the 123 and later models. All the modles that pre-date the 123s are getting harder to find parts for.

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  #17  
Old 04-07-2008, 03:54 PM
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I've been driving my "new" 1974 240D 4 speed for the past few days and like it. It's louder than the W123 or W116 (probably not as much sound insulation) but it is stylish and reminds me of the W108. In fact, I was able to repair the vacuum locks with parts I had left from my W108 days so they share some of the same parts.

If you drive a stick I recommend finding a 4 speed rather than an auto, especially if you do around town driving since the 4 speed seems to be able to keep up in traffic a little better than the auto, in my opinion.
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2008, 04:11 PM
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My wife drives a '75 240D everyday. It's a great car, fun to drive and averages mid 20s for fuel. It sets no speed records, but does ok. If you find an automatic model make sure the trans is adjusted properly to start in 1st when you floor it and not upshift too soon, it makes quite a difference. Parts are less abundant than for say a 123, but can be had and you don't need as many.
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'75 W115 240D, wife's dd, 197K
........'75 W115 300D, my dd, 245K
.. .. ..........'82 W126 300SD, the 'someday' project
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2008, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighDesert Benz View Post
My wife drives a '75 240D everyday. It's a great car, fun to drive and averages mid 20s for fuel. It sets no speed records, but does ok. If you find an automatic model make sure the trans is adjusted properly to start in 1st when you floor it and not upshift too soon, it makes quite a difference. Parts are less abundant than for say a 123, but can be had and you don't need as many.
IIRC the auto tranny in my '74 (we were the original owners) always started off in 2nd and was designed that way. First gear could be engaged either with the shifter in L or by using the kickdown but they were not intended to be adjusted to shift 1-2-3-4, just 2-3-4 under normal conditions.
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  #20  
Old 04-07-2008, 08:01 PM
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Yes the 115 is MUCH more vulnerable to rust than a 123. If you find a nice one get it ziebarted when you put it into service.

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #21  
Old 04-07-2008, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
If you find a nice one get it ziebarted when you put it into service.

Tom W
Wha?
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2008, 09:29 PM
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That was an anti-rust treatment used back in the late 70's. AMC's were famous for using that on their cars then.
It was only good if applied to the car when new. It wouldn't do a bit of good on an old car. In fact it could worsen any potential rust problem by trapping dirt and moisture.
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2008, 11:13 PM
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I have done many older cars that I brought back from the south. They treat it to stabilize the rust first and then do the treatment.

I did my california 74 240d which was pristine when I got it. after four years of driving it year round here in the rust belt there was a little bit of rust bubbling behind the rear wheels low where the dirt collected and probably was there before the ziebart treatment.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2008, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Yes the 115 is MUCH more vulnerable to rust than a 123. If you find a nice one get it ziebarted when you put it into service.

Tom W
What are the common spots for rust? I have heard about floor pans and water leaking in from somewhere up front (can't remember where). Any other typical places?
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2008, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
IIRC the auto tranny in my '74 (we were the original owners) always started off in 2nd and was designed that way. First gear could be engaged either with the shifter in L or by using the kickdown but they were not intended to be adjusted to shift 1-2-3-4, just 2-3-4 under normal conditions.
Yes, you're correct. It does do the normal 2-3-4 shifts under lighter throttle. What I was meaning is that you want to make sure that the kickdown is working properly, so that if from a stop you floor the pedal to trip the kickdown it will drop to first gear. It sure helps get it moving quicker if you need too get out of the way a hurry. Well, maybe hurry is kind of a strong word when refereing to a 240, but you know what I mean.
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'75 W115 240D, wife's dd, 197K
........'75 W115 300D, my dd, 245K
.. .. ..........'82 W126 300SD, the 'someday' project
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2008, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chetwesley View Post
What are the common spots for rust? I have heard about floor pans and water leaking in from somewhere up front (can't remember where). Any other typical places?
over headlights, fenders, floor. Pretty much everywhere.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2008, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
over headlights, fenders, floor. Pretty much everywhere.

Tom W
That, pretty much nails it... ....except for the jack points...
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2008, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diametricalbenz View Post
That, pretty much nails it... ....except for the jack points...
Jack points, ok yes rust on my jack points.
I have rust all over the 115.
The only part that is not rusted is the bottem of the car that is coated with oil.
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2008, 03:14 PM
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Haha, thanks
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2016, 08:00 PM
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I own a 240d and the damn thing is indistructible and drives well (yea it is not fast); it is a car that lasts and drives and I drive up hill and down hill and it is fine--they are so easy to work on. They are mechanical beasts and made with screws that can be taken off and put on: how wonderful.

Too much doom and gloom from u sissies.

Buy one that runs and drives and change the fluid, change the hoses for better vacume or the pump (it is not hard) and the fuel injectors and the little things and they run and run--if the compression is low re-do the pistons and rings. Done right and the car will run for another 250000-500000 depending on the maintenance.

The repair of the brakes are a piece of cake compared to the modern one (which also arnet that hard) and quit sowing impossibilities. Slowly repair the car and enjoy the improvements

And do NOT be the moron that thinks bio-diesel is romantic--all it does is clog the injectors!!!! And then u probably junk it as opposed to accepting responsibility for abusing the problem.

All u so called men aught to be estática that u. An fine such wonderful and practical machines that will drive you for soooooo cheap! And all the knowledge u will gain from these simple paradigms will pay dividends with the newer cars bc they are just faster not really different. It is part of what u have to learn for fatherhood.

Hey, quit looking for pristine examples of these cars you ninnies and fix your own, look on the net for parts: most are available.

There are many websites that have most of hat u need.

Once the car is close to running right, take it to a mechanic to FINE tune it for you, like the injector drip or the transmission shifting but the rest of it is Easy!!! Look at videos read books get the manuals: IT IS DOABLE!!!!!

Cut out all this doom and gloom

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