Ran a line directly from the lift pump to a clean can of diesel. I can still just get it to sputter. Is the lift pump bad? It looks to be held on with just two bolts. I think I'm going to have to get a new battery, next. I don't want to try to pull start a car with 300K on the odometer. Any more ideas?
Thanks,
Brad

How much fuel should be coming out of the injector lines on an 87 300D Turbo? When cranking I get barely a dribble out of the lines,(right before the injectors) but get something. Does anyone know the psi?
Thanks,
Brad

With the line disconnected from the injector, it will be very low.

Connected to the injector, it will be under 400 bar.

What is going on?

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1987 300TD ( under resto )
1987 300E SOLD
1987 300D
1993 400E
1997 Dodge/Cummins 3500
2004 E320 Wagon SOLD
2006 BMW M5 Yes, they will go 204 MPH SOLD
2008 BMW 535i SOLD (POS)
2011 BMW X5 Diesel
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2016 Nissan Titan XD Cummins 5.0!
2004 Audi Quattro ( track car ) AutoX machine
2010 BMW 328i ( sometimes track, but the Audi is faster )


I own maybe 100 t-shirts and they all smell like Diesel fuel and test oil......

The car won't start. I replaced the glow plugs (autolite and not bosch) because the glow light stopped coming on. The relay is getting power and each pin on the plug has fewer than 1 ohm. I replaced both filters, the secondary was really gummed up, dirt, black crud. The lift pump works, I took it out and it pumps. Also, it is pumping fuel to the IP. With the line from the LP to the IP off, it spurts out fuel pretty good. There is fuel coming out of the injector lines, not alot, but some. It has the new trap, I pulled the plug from it and it still won't start. I haven't pulled the injectors and I have not checked compression. It ran, poorly, before I changed the filters and the oil, now it will only sputter. If you pull the valve cover and crank it, the cam turns and all the lifters move up and down. One of them, #2 cyl Ex? I think, is solid, like its pumped up all the time. Also, if you crank it with the valve cover off, a lot of white smoke comes up out of the cam chain passage. I've been at this for over a month now and cannot get it started. I may pull start it. What size socket do I need to get the injector out? 25 or 26mm? I'm running out of ideas here.
Thanks,
Brad

First if that lifter is jammed solid get rid of it. Next I personally would do a compresion check to see what I had. Actually before the lifter change is okay but remember with a frozen lifter you may have no compression on that cylinder. Doing the compression check lets you know if the engine is worth any effort. It may suprise you and have not bad compression.

Only one way to find out. Harbour freight has a cheap compression checker for diesels or perhaps you can borrow one. Used better name brand ones are usually posted on ebay. Ocassionaly even a deal there.

I looked up your injectors at one of the internet parts places and it looks like your size socket is 27mm however 1-1/16 deep socket works fine. I have used my Craftsman 1-1/16 deep socket for over 25years and I bought it to remove injectors (they now cost about $10.50 each).
Ceaper sockets will work but you need to measure how deep they really go inside (on mine it is 2-3/4 of an inch deep for the full 1-1/6 inch width) as you do not want the socket to touch the 2 little hose nipples on the side of the injector. The overall length of the Craftsman socket is 3-3/4 inch.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Qustion: Was the car running before you had the no start problem?
If the car was running were there symptoms that presented themselves before the car would no longer start?
Try bypassing your fuel tank by running the fule inlet hose to a can/jar of clean diesel fuel. If it starts and runs you have some problem from there back to the fuel tank.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The car ran poorly before I changed the filters, but it started. I have run a line from the LP directly to a clean container of diesel. Made no difference. I'm getting fuel from the tank to the lift pump and the lift pump is pumping to the IP. Thanks for the socket sizes on the injectors. I have a 27mm socket but it is not a deep well. I'll get a 1 1/16 Craftsman tomorrow and pull an injector and check compression. The two dial gauges I have only go to 300psi, but my car may be low and I can get by with one of these. I need to either fix this thing or get rid of it because I've been fiddling with it for over a month. I really don't want to change that lifter if I don't have to.
Thanks,
Brad

Where are you located?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I'm in Liberty, MO, just North of Kansas City, MO. I'm on my way to Sears to get that deep well 1 1/16 in socket. Craftsman tools have served me well over the years.
Brad

Okay, I pulled the injector from the #1 Cyl. It has a lot of carbon right in the center of it. Thanks for the advice on the socket. Sears didn't have a 1 1/16, so I got a 27mm deep well and it worked great. The injector didn't want to come loose so I sprayed it with Power Blaster and it broke loose. I didn't do a search for testing injectors. Can I connect it to the car and crank it and see if it has a good spray pattern? Also, tomorrow I'm gonna get a diesel compression tester and check compression since I'm pulling injectors. I included a pic of it.
Thanks,
Brad

Attached Thumbnails

 

Even new injectors carbon up fast just as the picture shows. Carefully use a brass wire brush, fine steel wool or a green scouring pad and remove some of the carbon and see if the area under the carbon looks burned or eroded away.
If these are stock nozzles they may have the central drilled pintels (I am not sure 87s have them) as per the pic below. I found the ones from my car and ones I removed from junk cars have these holes plugged up.

I do not know what you can tell buy hooking the injector up to your IP and cranking the engine. What ever you do do not bend the Injector Hard lines much as they work harden and get stiff with age and do not like to be bent.
The various tests you do with the Pop Testor/Nozzle Testor require that you manipulate the haldle/lever on the tester carefully while you watch the pressure gauge. So, hooking the injector up to a hard line and cranking the engine may only tell you if it is getting fuel there and if it pees out instead of forcefull shot out of the injector if the spray nozzle seat is worn out. Make sure the battery is charged good so it will crank well and keep your body parts away from the injector spray nozzles as it can easily shoot into your body.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is the third thread I've started on this wont-start issue on this car. The others seem to get lost. 87 300D Turbo. 300K. Was running sluggish and starting hard. Changed the filters and oil. The primary was black on one side, but not completely clogged, the secondary had dirt and black chunks in it. Started after the filter change, died and would not restart, only sputter. Glow light was not coming on. Changed glow plugs. Only sputtered. Pulled the lift pump, good suction when you pushed in the little button. LP spits fuel out when you crank it. Ran a line straight from the LP to a can of clean diesel. Just sputtered. Have fuel to the injectors. Pulled the injectors, they were really carboned up. Took them to a diesel shop in KCMO, Pro Diesel, they said they worked fine. Got a diesel compression tester from Harbor Freight (I have three for gas motors) and checked the compression, cold motor, of course, since it won't start. Here's the numbers #1 100psi, #2 200, #3 110, #4 90, #5 100 #6 110. These are really low, I know. But how did the car even run before I changed the filters? Oh yeah, I put it all back together and it won't even sputter, now. I also checked ohms to the glow plugs, less than 1 ohm to each. You can see them glow when looking down the holes with the injectors out. Should I junk this thing, or try to ring it? How about the valves? Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Brad

I suspect you have a combination of problems. Hard starting is indeed a symptom of low compression, as verified by your compression test. However, it seems to me that the engine is not getting fuel, as evidenced by the dirty filters. Did you fill the secondary filter with fuel before you installed it? The OM60x engines don't have primer pumps; they self-prime but it can take quite a while, especially if the filters start out dry. Keep a charger on the battery, make sure it is fully charged and crank for 30 seconds at a time, letting the starter motor cool for a few minutes after three tries. With working glow plugs, the engine should eventually start even with low compression, once fuel gets through to the injectors.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Sounds like you have bacteria in your tank.

I recommend a biocide treatment. Available from Farm, Truck or Marine repair shops and supply.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.