Stupid oil pan drain plug BE GONE! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cphilip · #16 04-08-2008, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

I wanted it soley because I could have directly drained through a little tube into jugs....skipping the messy drain tub.....

that can be achieved by using one of the Vacuum top side drain things. It is likely one of its best attractive features.

pawoSD · #17 04-08-2008, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cphilip

that can be achieved by using one of the Vacuum top side drain things. It is likely one of its best attractive features.

Yeah....but those cost money, and take up space to store them....and I like going under the car to inspect things anyways.

My oil change setup consists of a funnel ($1.50 at autozone), a white 16qt rubbermaid tub from the discount store $3.....and a 13mm socket + extension.

Nice and cheap.

I pour the oil from the tub into the empty jugs using the funnel.....I then use brake cleaner and a rag to clean the funnel off, and use it to pour the new oil into the engine. I then wipe the oil off it with a rag, and put everything away. Including drip-time I usually do the entire procedure in 20-30 mins. With about 15-20 of that being time where I leave it to drip.

cphilip · #18 04-08-2008, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Yeah....but those cost money, and take up space to store them....and I like going under the car to inspect things anyways.

My oil change setup consists of a funnel ($1.50 at autozone), a white 16qt rubbermaid tub from the discount store $3.....and a 13mm socket + extension.

Nice and cheap.

I pour the oil from the tub into the empty jugs using the funnel.....I then use brake cleaner and a rag to clean the funnel off, and use it to pour the new oil into the engine. I then wipe the oil off it with a rag, and put everything away. Including drip-time I usually do the entire procedure in 20-30 mins. With about 15-20 of that being time where I leave it to drip.

Sure... it costs $70 bucks initially. But it has many other applications.

it takes up less space than an open 16 quart Tub would... and, not only that it can be closed and kept clean by being so. The tub will remain oily and need about four times the area shelf space. The Vac would need more Vertical space but the tub a lot more horizontal space. But it has a sealed lid... And it shuts off automatically, if need be, rather than overflows... and you can transport the old oil in it too rather than transport to Jugs. Because it has a sealed lid... It has a lot of advantages over a drain tub.

I used to use them too but have all but abandoned them but I keep one around. In them I liked the ones that became a tank and could be sealed. Those are pretty cheap and eliminate the step of transferring to jugs as well.

The rest seems about the same to me beyond that. Besides having to wipe off your other tools its the same from that point on.

The Vac can be used for all sorts of Fluid removals where a drain plug does not exist. Power Steering, Brake Fluid and Coolant recovery tanks and such... it has a lot of other applications that make it worth it.

pawoSD · #19 04-08-2008, 06:23 PM

The tub is about the size of a shoe box....only a little wider and about 5" deeper.....very little space consumption.

cphilip · #20 04-08-2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The tub is about the size of a shoe box....only a little wider and about 5" deeper.....very little space consumption.

You must have very big feet... or that volume cannot be contained in a 5" deep shoe box...

Alright... never mind...

79300sdtd · #21 04-08-2008, 07:40 PM

on the CRD page a lot of people use then cause they have skids... ya just reach around and flip the lever... no need to take the skid off.... and people strip out the aluminium pans out

Bob Albrecht · #22 04-08-2008, 10:03 PM

I bought a LiquiVac for changing my oil because I didn't want to remove the under-engine cover. Most older Mercedes don't have them any more, but mine does. I like my LiquiVac, it is 99% easier than draining the oil out the bottom and you don't have to get dirty at all. I have actually changed my oil and filter in a business suit.

When I get home I wait about 30 minutes for the oil to cool a bit, pump up my LiquiVac, stick it in the dipstick tube, and go. Then I come back in about 10 minutes and change the filter. By removing the old filter into the plastic bag that the new one comes in it doesn't make a mess. I use a rubber glove to grab the old filter's handle. When the old oil is sucked out, I just pour in a couple of gallons of Rotella-T and I am done. It is so easy that I am more likely to change the oil on time.

Emptying the LiquiVac is much easier than a tub. I pour the old oil into the two gallon containers from the new oil and take it to the recycling center later. Rotalla-T is cheap by the case at Sam's Club and it is made for diesels.

BTW: There is some good engine research showing that you will want to change your oil more frequently when using B100. I don't know about WVO, but I don't want to find out for myself either.

pawoSD · #23 04-09-2008, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cphilip

You must have very big feet... or that volume cannot be contained in a 5" deep shoe box...

Alright... never mind...

Ok I'll admit I mis underestimated the oil tub...

I measured it....its 17" long, 13" wide and 6" deep and holds 16qts.

That would indeed be a very large shoe box....

johnathan1 · #24 04-09-2008, 12:34 AM

If something is tall enough to hit the Fumoto, then it is taking the pan with it, regardless. The difference in clearance is negligible at best...

Over on Supra forums, the Fumoto is widely used, and nobody has ever had a ground clearance problem with it. Even with their lowered, 500+ hp beasts.

Just don't hit speed bumps at 80MPH...you guys are silly...LOL

Hatterasguy · #25 04-09-2008, 12:47 AM

Yeah those are nice, but its simpler to just suck it out. If you have the sound shields in place that is, I currantly don't so I just reach under a bit with an open end and undo the plug. My SD was a bit of a PITA because they put the plug in the back, so I had to jack it up slightly.

pawoSD · #26 04-09-2008, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Yeah those are nice, but its simpler to just suck it out. If you have the sound shields in place that is, I currantly don't so I just reach under a bit with an open end and undo the plug. My SD was a bit of a PITA because they put the plug in the back, so I had to jack it up slightly.

?? Do SDL's have it in front? All 617's/616's have the plug in back. Its easier to just drive up on a short ramp (I made some from a few pieces of wood screwed to each other), gives you an extra 6-8" easily.

Hatterasguy · #27 04-09-2008, 01:11 AM

603's, 606's, M104's and probably more.

Its on the side, and so easy to reach. As long as you don't have the belly pans on, no jack needed. The threads are a mile long to so you get plenty of time to ditch the wrench and remove it by hand, without dropping it...

KarTek · #28 04-09-2008, 06:12 AM

Seems like a lot of guys on the truck forums use them. I've considered it but I hesitate for fear the thing might unscrew or something stupid like that.

One trick I use when changing the oil is to take the shop vac and stick the nozzle into the oil fill hole. It creates enough suction to keep the oil from coming out of the hole when the bolt is removed. That way you can remove the bolt, place your container in the exact right spot, get out of the way and then pull the vacuum. Works perfect every time and no hot oil on the hands!

Oh, by the way, here are some REAL vicious cycles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAj0NvKt9pMhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAj0NvKt9pM

LUVMBDiesels · #29 04-09-2008, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

...One trick I use when changing the oil is to take the shop vac and stick the nozzle into the oil fill hole. It creates enough suction to keep the oil from coming out of the hole when the bolt is removed. That way you can remove the bolt, place your container in the exact right spot, get out of the way and then pull the vacuum. Works perfect every time and no hot oil on the hands!
...

Dang smart! I am going to try that next time I do a change. I usually am doing all three road vehicles at the same time so I have alot of old oil to take care of.

For the coolant block drain, I used a 1/4 inch galvanized ball valve with a two inch nipple going horizontal and an 90 degree elbow with a six inch nipple when I flush the system. This way I can drain the block, put in the valve, run water until it is nice and hot and then open the valve to drain. It also served as a back flushing tool with a four foot section of hose grafted to the end of the last nipple. I removed this rig after I was done with it for fear of it being hit by something on the road and loosing my coolant. If you are brave you could just leave the valve on the block with maybe the 2 inch nipple and a cap to be safe and keep the threads clean.

Knightrider966 · #30 04-09-2008, 10:42 AM

I like the idea of this, but my Mercedes Benz W123's are not that high off the ground anyway and this part will now be the closest thing to the ground on a W123!

I have enver bottomed out the oil pan and don't intend to, but I would think the MB engineers made the oil drain recessed for good reasons. The pan is tough and the plug not the easiest to remove, but I personally like it that way.