W126 Center Console Window Switches
 

I have a 300SD and I am having problems with my windows. They don't work.

I would like to check the switches but cant figure out how to get the switches out.

How do you get the switches out? (pictures would be greatly appreciated)

Why condemn the switches?

Do all four windows cease to function?

What year is the 300SD?

Neither passenger side windows work on mine, it's the slider on the back. I replaced the switch, easier, cheaper than a regulator. No difference, haven't dug into it further.
Switches pop out from below the wood, but the new switch will not clip back in.

That's almost certainly the motors............open a door panel and put voltage and a ground directly to the motor leads..........see if you get any response.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it the motor, the front one anyway.

What year is your SD? On the 83 you remove the ash tray (2 screws seen when you remove the pop out tray part) then remove the coin tray (should just lift out now, then slide the wood with the switches foward and then you can lift it (caution - when you lift it all the connector will probably come undone)

It is an '83.

- The Right Rear window doesn't work, but you can hear something moving (so it isn't the switch)
- The drivers window works
- the front passenger and Left Rear dont work at all.

Your RR window is just like mine, a slider failure, you need one of the two in the attachment, the flat one I think. https://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=d0vmdo45ekpfdt453hfl1orq&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194027@300SD%20&year=1983& cid=13@Body,%20Trim%20%26%20Lighting&gid=1581@Window%20Regulator%20Bushing/Repair%20Kit
Check fuse "a" it's a red 16 amp for the front passenger, left rear.

You can pop the switches out of the console. They are held in place by a little spring clip. Once they are out pull the connectors off the back. The rocker switch contacts can be cleaned by removing the rocker part. You can carefully pop the side w/ a small screw driver. Inside are several parts 2 springs & two ball bearings as well as two brass pieces w/ contact points that you can clean and then reassemble. I don't have pictures but I have seen them on this sight. Use the search function.
Also if the drivers side and the opposite rear window don't work it is usually a fuse. They are both on the same circuit. The passenger front and driver side rear window are on thier own circuit as well. Replace the fuse even if it looks OK. Sometimes the contacts corrode if you still have aluminum fuses. It helps to roll the fuse between the contacts(removes some corrosion). It is best to use copper fuse or GBC type.

There have been three power window thread in three days:eek:

Looks like spring is here!

Please do a search for power windows and you will see my post from yesterday on how to troubleshoot the motors...

Also please replace your fuses, do not just look at them. believe me, they are due for replacement...

When I replaced my window switches inthe fron console, I filed down the ends of the switch with a dremel. The replacement switches are 2 or 3 mm too long. You can shave this off the ends and the switch will pop into the hole. Take a little off each end and you will not cut through the plastic.

Thanks TooMany! I will take a look at it and replace the fuses.

LuvMBDiesels, I thoroughly read through your window motor t-shooting. Hope to not have to use it, wanted to try the easy stuff first. I have a bunch of extra switches from the Auto Parts yard.

Unfortunately, the previous owner didn't take care of this car very well. So I am nursing it back to health a little bit at a time.

Timely thread on blown window fuses; my '87 420SEL has blown a few fuses. One person suggested cleaning the window switches, another thought replacing the relay might solve the problem.

Every time the fuse blew, I simply replaced it with the same color as what was there when I bought the vehicle. Tonight, looking at the post with the fuse location and size, I realized that mine had too small a fuse (white 8 amp) installed and actually needed a blue 25 amp fuse. I'll see how it turns out, but I'm sure that's why the fuse would blow once a week. Guess I should always start with the obvious... and I was ready to pull and replace all the window switches.