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  #1  
Old 04-09-2008, 09:08 PM
Joe
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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'82 240D Clutch Question

Hello,

I am looking at an 82 240D, but the current owner says it needs a clutch. I have not seen the car yet, but at $1500.00 I may just buy it. But that all depends on what I will need to pay for the parts to fix the 4 speed.

I have seen clutch disks for about $140, but I am wondering what else I should replace while I am in there?
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1987 250D
1984 300TD
1983 300D
2002 Chevy 2500HD Diesel
1995 Dodge 12 valve Cummins Dually
All Biodiesel Powered
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2008, 09:18 PM
SW SW is offline
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Location: Houston, TX. USA
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clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing. I think you should be able to get the whole kit for less than $300.
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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
-------------------------------------
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2008, 10:27 PM
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Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,277
Front trans seal and bearing ?
There is a way to check to see if the clutch needs to be replaced... a tool which either goes into a slot or does not.... of something to show the distance the clutch has worn....
There is a picture in the FSM..
I mention this in case his impression that it needs a clutch comes from a lack of proper adjustment of linkages, etc...
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2008, 11:18 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Reconnoitre 4 hrs labor total for 240D tranny out and in.... $300 - $450 parts, disc, press plate, throwout bearing etc. Dont let em machine the flywheel unless its shimmed to compensate or clutch throw will be at bottom off pedal.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2008, 11:22 PM
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Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
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Leathermang has a point. These clutches last a long time, and it is more likely the hydraulic actuator parts are dead. There is a tool (if I can find the sketch I will post it) that fits into a slot in the bell housing, and over the slave cylinder rod once the clutch has worn down to the point where the rod is extending out near the end of its travel.

I have had the springs on the clutch fail due to oil leaking past the main seal (my 1975 240D) causing chattering. The damage was done at around 40k miles but the clutch disc didn't wear down to the point where the distorted spring contacted anything until well past 120k miles. At that point it got machined down to a thickness that just broke when I stepped on the pedal one day. My 1982 240D's ring gear got ground up by the starter and I needed to replace it. I replaced the clutch at the time since getting to the ring gear meant taking all those parts out. At 170k miles it just didn't seem wise to put them back in so I put new ones in. My other manual transmission equipped cars have a high of 260k miles (1986 190E 2.3-16), 192k miles (1988 300E) and 178k miles (1983 240D), all on original clutches. With kids learning to drive standards and then driving them for the last 8 years.

The point is the clutches are pretty sturdy. It warrants a check of the clutch disc thickness before getting in there as once you get to them, it is kind of pointless not to replace them. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2008, 03:29 AM
Joe
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 44
As usual, you guys make a great point, I remember when I got my first 300D and it shifted rough. I thought for sure I was going to have to have it rebuilt, until I got smart and found the loose vaccum hose. The last standard shift vehicle I had was a Ford Explorer (AKA: POS) so I assumed the wost.

Anyway, if you can find any more info about that clutch tool I would love to see it, and it would be good for the archives of this forum too, regardless of if I buy the car or not.

But thanks for the input on time and pricing too.

BTW, I have a spare 617 from an 83 300SD and was thinking that this 240 may be a great home for it, especially with 340k on the 4 cyl NA motor. Are there any performance transmission parts out there designed for the extra power that the 5 cyl would produce?
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1987 250D
1984 300TD
1983 300D
2002 Chevy 2500HD Diesel
1995 Dodge 12 valve Cummins Dually
All Biodiesel Powered
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:43 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 32,699
a turbo tranny.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:56 AM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runnysucklehose View Post
Are there any performance transmission parts out there designed for the extra power that the 5 cyl would produce?
Nope. The 4-speed will handle everything the turbo 617 can produce.
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  #9  
Old 04-10-2008, 08:31 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 32,699
I agree the stick tranny is plenty strong enough.

I got off topic there and thought you were speaking of an automatic.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #10  
Old 04-10-2008, 09:27 AM
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Location: central Texas
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That clutch checking tool looks like a flat " Y ".... or slingshot.... just a flat piece of metal ...you hold onto the one sided end... and the two sided end is put towards the place you check this at... it will either span that rod or it won't... so their is some reduced shoulder on that metal part you are measuring... and this is a ' go ,no go ' gauge....
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  #11  
Old 04-10-2008, 02:29 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
That clutch checking tool looks like a flat " Y ".... or slingshot.... just a flat piece of metal ...you hold onto the one sided end... and the two sided end is put towards the place you check this at... it will either span that rod or it won't... so their is some reduced shoulder on that metal part you are measuring... and this is a ' go ,no go ' gauge....
It is easy to make, or, you can buy one from MB for around $25. Part number is 115 07 23 00
Attached Thumbnails
'82 240D Clutch Question-201-clutch-thickness-tool-small-.jpg   '82 240D Clutch Question-201-clutch-thickness-tool-small-2.jpg   '82 240D Clutch Question-201-clutch-thickness-tool-small-3.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2008, 11:30 AM
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Does anything have to be removed first before putting this tool on the slave cyl as shown in the pic? How does one interpret the results? Please give step by step instructions thanks! I am thinking of making one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
It is easy to make, or, you can buy one from MB for around $25. Part number is 115 07 23 00
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2008, 12:29 PM
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
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In your area like mine there will be a clutch rebuilder or several. Here in canada it costs about 50.00 to reline a clutch disk and true it. They can rebuild the pressure plate assembley as well at nominal cost usually. When you buy a rebuilt aftermarket thats basically what you are getting plus paying various middleman and the retailer their cuts.

Everyone has to make a living I know but on some items like certain auto parts there is too much of a price spread. .
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2008, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Does anything have to be removed first before putting this tool on the slave cyl as shown in the pic? How does one interpret the results? Please give step by step instructions thanks! I am thinking of making one.
Study post 10 and 11. There is a slot between the slave cylinder and the transmission. This is where this tool slides. You don't need to take anything apart. If there is enough wear the thin gauge won't advance around the shaft on the slave. So as Leathermang says, it's a go or no go. If it won't go, it's worn beyond factory specs. Hope this helps.
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2008, 05:56 PM
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I looked at my slave cyl and there was no slit to stick this tool through that I can see. What am I missing? Does the slave cyl bolts have to be loosened first to raise it away from the mounting surface before using the tool?
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowbenz View Post
Study post 10 and 11. There is a slot between the slave cylinder and the transmission. This is where this tool slides. You don't need to take anything apart. If there is enough wear the thin gauge won't advance around the shaft on the slave. So as Leathermang says, it's a go or no go. If it won't go, it's worn beyond factory specs. Hope this helps.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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