Compression hill climb non turbo super band wagon
 

I just did a compression test 400-300-400-420-320 not bad for a 220k? I've cleaned my fuel delivery system, and I think I might have my linkage set up right.

I was wondering if those two low cylinders could drop me from going 70mph to 50mph on most inclines how ever small. The real steep slow climbs almost take me to a stop. Was hoping to take Bertha to Tahoe but I'm a little scared of highway 50 like this.

You are sure your fuel filters and tank screen are clear? How about the air filter?

Thanks for the help. I have checked all these. If you don't think its compression related what about the IP
I've scene these recommendations for IP maintenance but wasn't sure if I should trust them.

"on top of the pump there is a 10 mm nut with a slotted tud in the middle. loosen the nut and turn the stud counter clokwise to get more power(higher psi?). only a little at a time though, like an 8th of a turn."

"you can also replace or shim the spring in the return banjo on back of pump, these PSI valves are designed to maintain 5 Psi in the pump, but often time's they are worn and need to be shimmed or replaced."

I would also check your linkage from the IP to the throttle and adjust as necessary to take out the slack. Make sure your bolt for the stop in max throttle position is turned in correctly, mine was way out of adjustment and I had this same problem.:D I run 275 to 290 PSI per cylinder and I can pass on hills including highway 17 going to sedona for dinner on the incline!:D

recommend a forum? I can't seem to find a link for adjusting the linkage.
Thanks

Maybe I could just ask you how the max throttle position should be set on the ip. Seems like I have a lot of room for adjustment if
thanks

How long ago was your last valve adjustment? 100PSI difference between cylinders is not good...

I adjusted the vales a few weeks ago. I even checked them a few days later because I thought I might have done it wrong. It has been run on VO and Bio for some of its later life, so maybe some rings are stuck, or I adjusted those two cylinders wrong. Dyslexia has an unfortunate role in my life. Maybe I should do another check tomorrow. =)

It looks from this picture that it has been turned outward somewhat. Loosen the bolt and turn it all the way in. With the engine off disconnect the throttle linkage at the last piece going to the IP and push it untill your remaining piece cannot go any further. Note this position and unscrew the bolt untill it contacts the piece that hits the head of the bolt and turn the bolt out one more turn and then lock it down!

Next see how much slack is in your linkage and adjust the excess slack out of it and re-engage back to the piece you disconnected. Grease all your pivot points well.

Now I have a turbo and you don't and I know this will make a difference, especially on hills, but you should be able to keep up with traffic, but probably not pass them!:D

Also, if your timing is off this will make a BIG difference too.;)

If your running Biodiesl still, you can advance the timing by 3* to take advantage of the fuel and get the most energy out of it!

Your 100psi diff from one cylinder to another is troubling. My 1980 wagon was in top running shape and from 0-50 is was fine, and about the same speed as my wife's 1982 wagon. On highway passing however the turbo makes a very noticeable difference.

Thanks night rider that little adjustment made some difference. feels like it has a little more top end on the small hill I tried it on. Happen to know when my car is supposed to go back down to 3rd from a slow 4th? 35mph doesn't seem right. Or when going up a hill at 50 4ths the end of the road? Amazing how one screw can change your life.