Front wheel bearing race R&R advice needed
 

I'm starting my brake overhaul this weekend and plan to do the front wheel bearings while I have it apart.

I read about using the old bearing to drive out the race and using the old race backwards to drive in the new race (after 6 hours in the freezer). Is this a good idea or should I buy a race/seal driver set? I don't mind paying for a driver set, but if the other method works, I'd be OK with saving the money.:D

I used a brass drift to drive the old race out.

Did you use any special technique? I'd imagine a brass drift mashing if I did it.
Did you use the drift to drive the new race back in too? How did you drive the seal in?

I did bearing races once before, but I used a press. I don't have access to one this time.

I would not change the bearings if they weren't bad. Clean and regrease them and use a new seal.

There is a slight grind sound in both front wheels that I only hear when I rotate the wheels by hand. With almost 400K miles I figure they are probably ready, but I haven't looked at them yet. I already have the bearing kits, I just haven't decided how to deal with the races.

I use a 8mm drift to drive out the old race. Using the old race to drive in the new works, a socket works better because it's taller and gets your fingers further away from the hammer. A seal and race driver works much, much better.

brass drift. just like any other race I've ever done. the mbz design is a pain- there is barely enough race to get an edge on for removal. but it is not too big of a deal, about 35 minutes/side.

I got a cheepie drift from HF for $10, works fine.

Is this the one you use?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37038

Using the old race works well, but I would recommend that you don't use it "backwards." The old race will typically seat to some degree; if it's in backwards it's tough to knock out, as the shoulder is facing the wrong way.

To remove the inner race, I use a large 1/2" drive socket installed backwards on an extension bar. The larger circumference of the socket shoulder (as compared to drift) gives a better grip on the shoulder of the bearing cup.

That makes perfect sense, thanks for the tips.:)

Well I did the bearings on the driver side today and it went smoothly.

I used a 3/8" round drift to drive out the old races and I got a race/seal driver to drive the new ones in.

Tomorrow I'll finish up the passenger side and get the new calipers and pads on. So far this has been an enjoyable project.:cool:

no. the one I got is just a straight drift- 7/8 or 1" in diameter. that one, the straight one is only 1/2. sold solo- not a combo deal. I walked in and bought, so I dont have a PN...

If you are going to throw the old bearing race away is there a reason you cannot use a steel drift?

a steel drift tends to tear up the inside of the rotor hub. makes replacing the bearing an iffy proposition... that being said, I use a steel drift, I am just carefull not to damage the hub.

I think the fact that if you want to use the old race to seat the new on that you are supposed to grind around the outer edge was forgotten... that is how you keep it from binding... and you place it the same way as the one going in so you have that difference between the open front taper and the back side size in case you need help pulling it out...gives you a LIP... but that also means you did not grind enough off the outside...