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#1
04-12-2008, 09:39 PM
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More qusetions...
When doing a coolant flush, how worth it is decalcifying? I mean I could do it. I'm just not sure what the point is and if it's worth the trouble of getting the citric acids needed. Another question: My breaks feel like they are gonna give at any moment. The guy I'm getting the car from says he replaced the bearings. There are some new tire rods in the trunk I'll put on. I'll get new break pads for all the wheels I assume that I need all 4. What else should I do or look out for when I've got the wheels off? Thanks!
Rama 
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#2
04-12-2008, 09:46 PM
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Consider replacing all the rubber brake hoses. They swell up on the inside and block fluid from getting to the calipers.
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys
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#3
04-12-2008, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
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#6
04-12-2008, 10:01 PM
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I'm looking at this page for parts.
http://www.europartsdirect.com/epc-search.asp# If anyone would take a minute to build me a list I would really appreciate it. Thanks for all the help!
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#7
04-12-2008, 10:11 PM
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they list parts by diagram. Nice feature.
http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/drawings.aspx
They have part diagrams its a nice feature. Also their catalog has diagrams. Its a nice feature.
__________________
92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59
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#8
04-12-2008, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Check parts and prices at ***************
__________________
83 SD 84 CD
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#9
04-12-2008, 10:24 PM
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Yet another question. I want to do a valve adjustment. Tools ain't cheap for this apparently. There are two items on ebay. Let me know if both of these will do the job on my 84 300d model 123...
and... one of the listings show two wrenches of the same length and one shows two different lengths......any ideas?
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#10
04-12-2008, 10:24 PM
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Concerning the brake discs... you will not usually need to replace those...
They have a small number etched on them which indicates the minimum thickness...safety factor.... on such an old car it is good when you look at the brakes to measure that thickness and compare to the figure.... be sure to measure flat spot and not on the possible edge ridge... if there is a significant ridge you need to have the discs turned by a shop.. be sure they see the number stamped... I once had some idiots turn one down below that and try to charge me more than a brand new disc costs... they are pretty cheap by the way... nice insurance... Typically you only need the new pads... But may I be so bold as to suggest that on your FIRST brake job.. since it is a pretty important feature of the car... THAT YOU GET SOME SUPERVISORY HELP FROM SOMEONE... On an old car the suggestion about the new rubber lines is great also...
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#13
04-12-2008, 10:32 PM
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THe lines that allow the wheels to move and still get brake fluid to the brakes.
yes, rotors, discs same...unless you are talking computer ...
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#14
04-12-2008, 10:33 PM
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Brake rotors and brake discs are the same thing. The rubber lines are the ones that run from the end of the steel brake line to the calipers to allow for the movement of the suspension. They aren't expensive and they're easy to change.
On the valve wrenches, either style will work. I have the kind with two different length wrenches, and I like them.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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