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  #31  
Old 04-12-2008, 12:04 AM
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You have two options:
1. Just start sucking the fluid out via the dipstick tube like the dealer does.

2. Suck all the oil out, buy a new drain plug, heat the pan with a torch, and extract the old drain plug.

Both options are just as good, I an anal and even if I chose the first I would still extract and replace the plug.

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  #32  
Old 04-12-2008, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
I think it is, but I would certainly not bet much on it. However, if you're in the St. Louis area, I'll suck your oil out and you can see if any more comes out the drain plug.
I think there is some value to the ' flushing ' effect.... in fact I often put some new oil in near the end of the draining.... to get the last of the drudge out....
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2008, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I think there is some value to the ' flushing ' effect.... in fact I often put some new oil in near the end of the draining.... to get the last of the drudge out....
true, and I do the same, however, I think this is offset by the fact that every time I have used a vac, more measurable oil has come out than with draining (not sure why but I have some theories). Plus if you still wanted most of this "oil washing effect" you could just pour half a quart in while still vacuuming the old oil out when it is near done... One thing I know for sure is that the new oil after a change appears to be just as clear with a vac or with good old fashioned gravity!
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  #34  
Old 04-12-2008, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I think there is some value to the ' flushing ' effect.... in fact I often put some new oil in near the end of the draining.... to get the last of the drudge out....

Do you drain the oil cooler as well?

My habit is to change the oil after it has a chance to warm. Gets those little bits back in suspension if they precipitated out while sitting.

Jim
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  #35  
Old 04-12-2008, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JimFreeh View Post
Do you drain the oil cooler as well? Jim
No, I am too afraid of messing up those threads .... but that cooler has the input and output at the bottom... no large horizontal surface like the pan for stuff to drop out of suspension in a low flow situation...

I also think there is some value to having to get under your vehicle on a regular basis.... look for leaks... feel of things that need to be tight... etc...call me old fashioned...
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  #36  
Old 04-12-2008, 10:46 AM
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Wow I forgot how these oil/oil change discussions could get going.
According to the Manual thats listed at this site: http://mb.auto.pl/component/option,com_wrapper/Itemid,62/

One of the first things is "Before suctioning or draining engile oil, drain oil filter, buy unscrewing center bolt and removing together with oil filter cover".

Suction engine oil via oil dipstick tube with engine at operating temperature.

If no Suction unit available drain oil from oil Pan.

They do mention: NOTE: The oil inthe air-oil cooler need not be Drained.

Just Drain and Refill. Please don't make it harder for your selves.

If you want the Engine oil and filter change 0101.05 PDF file it's 1.2M 31 pages Covers bunch of engines. I'll be happy to e-mail it.
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Last edited by bobodaclown; 04-12-2008 at 10:51 AM.
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  #37  
Old 04-12-2008, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bobodaclown View Post
According to the Manual thats listed at this site: http://mb.auto.pl/component/option,com_wrapper/Itemid,62/

If you want the Engine oil and filter change 0101.05 PDF file it's 1.2M 31 pages Covers bunch of engines. I'll be happy to e-mail it.
I could not download it because I am on a slow dialup...
but it looked like it was for a 124...
Are those instructions for a 617 or 616 engine ?
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  #38  
Old 04-12-2008, 11:13 AM
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Pages 21-21 cover the 616 and 617 engines.

I'm having a problem uploading them. Will work on it later.
Bob
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  #39  
Old 04-12-2008, 11:29 AM
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So the instructions having to do with sucking the oil out apply to the 616,617 engine ?
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  #40  
Old 04-12-2008, 04:03 PM
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616 617 Oil Change Instructions

Attached are Directions from Mercedes Maint Manual for oil change 616 and 617 engine.

Its 5 pages total. 3 parts. If you have any problems with it let me know.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Pages 1, 2, Oil Change 616 617.pdf (38.0 KB, 129 views)
File Type: pdf Pages 3, 4, 616 617.pdf (57.7 KB, 100 views)
File Type: pdf Page 5, 616 617.pdf (25.7 KB, 108 views)
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  #41  
Old 04-12-2008, 07:58 PM
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Please list what car you have....otherwise it's all a guess. I'd put your MB model /year in your description- then we don't guess anymore. Oil changes by removing the oil via the dipstick with a vacuum device is just fine- and there are no downsides to it other than it may be a bit slower than the remove the plug method. This is in reference to the 616/617 and newer engines.

Last edited by MTUpower; 04-12-2008 at 08:05 PM.
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  #42  
Old 04-12-2008, 08:36 PM
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The downsides to it include having to buy/maintain the equipment, having to be near enough to use 120 volt source if it runs on that...
AND I suggest that if stuff is coming off inside the engine....like pieces of plastic off a rail or guide.... or shavings off a sprocket .... will not show up using an oil sucker...
And having had my share of pans off of engines.... and cleaned them.... I still say the flushing effect has some value by itself....
That is one reason they install magnetic drain plugs on many cars... and on almost all airplane engines....
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  #43  
Old 04-12-2008, 08:42 PM
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i once destroyed my 115 by not correctly installing the oil filter.. tear..
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  #44  
Old 04-12-2008, 09:17 PM
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original poster, you put 15-40 oil in, right? If not donor panic, but thats what should be put in your car because its a diesel
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  #45  
Old 04-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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15w-30 I believe actually...

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