Hello All,

:EDIT:
Various suppliers.
http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/products/shims/?gclid=CIeHl5i24bUCFUWd4AodqW0AGw
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=220755

HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28
:EDIT:

In case you needed another way to spend time in the garage, injector shims. They are not cheap, but at least there is an easy place to get them.

Maybe this will get others to offer the shims

Richard

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Richard
'83 300SD 180k
'87 300SDL "200k"
Central Ohio

C. Sean Watts also sells the different thicknesses of shims, new injector springs as well as new Monark nozzles at resonable prices. Or, contact:
hessianimports@bellsouth.net

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

How do you know which size you need? Theres like a zillon of them.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I've been told each on of those shims is about a buck a piece. So they add up quick if you have a set that more than a few sizes.

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Thats the trick. You have to measure the one that comes out of an injector and then add a fatter one to raise the pop pressure and a thinner one if you want to lower the pressure. It's a bit of trial and error. Put on in and try it. and if you need to adjust more you pull the injector back apart and put in a different shim.

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After Installing your new spray nozzles (I number my injectors when I remove them) you Pop Test them on the nozzle tester and write down what the opening/Pop pressures of all of the injectors. You take apart the injector and measure the shim/s that you have in that injector. For my car the manual gives 0.05mm per 3.0bar change in pressure. So you try to calculate which shim you need to get the desired pressure. You put your shim in and re-assemble the injector and Pop test it again and hope you chose the right shim. If not you start over again.
The 0.05mm per 3.0bar change is just a guide as the effect on various springs varies.
This is one of the reasons when a spray nozzles is change it should be Pop Tested.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I bought a complete set of Bosch injector shims....

Theres around 30 different thicknesses. The kit I have has 10 shims per thickness. It cost 30 pounds sterling as I recall a couple of years ago....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

going on a year now. $0.89 each and I've always varied the set number according to what you need.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

You open the injector, measure the shim in it, clean the parts (spacer, mating surfaces - see the many threads) install the new nozzle, reassemble and pop test.

THEN adjust thicker or thinner to reach the desired pressure.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

That was my point.

I own my own pop tester. You can't do this effectively w/o having ALL of the different shims.....

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Since I do not have an assortment of shims to chose from I opted to buy a shim punch and punch out my own shims. This worked OK to a point. The job had to be finished before I could order shim stock any thicker then .002" and I had to make do with that when I assembled my injectors today. My wife needs the car for Saturday.
The job would have been easier If I had had some more thicknesses to choose from.
The outside diameter of the shims are close to 7/16.
The shim punch will punch up to .010" of hardened shim stock and I got new as a "Buy It Now" on Ebay $50.
Also another fuel injection company Diesel KiKi makes thin shims for their copies of Bosch injectors that also fit Bosch. Since it was 25 years ago I have no idea what they would cost now.
I added this pic. There is a metal bolck with holes under the orange paper tag.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Being designed in Germany, I'm sure the injectors need metric sized shims .. does the size discrepancy matter?

Also, what kind of shim stock do you punch your shims from?

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

Interesting kit!--But sounds like a lot of work!

Does this also cut the hole in the shim centre...?

Hole needs to be there to allow the 'leak-off' to escape...

Unless you have summit like this or a complete shim-kit its not even worth owning a 'pop-tester' apart form to confirm whether an injector is good or not. Trying to shim-up without the full range is pointless and Very frustrating without-Ask me how I know!

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Answers
patbob- The shims do not need to be metric. As long as the shim fits inside the injector body and dose not block the fuel return holes they will work.
Alastir- There are other types of Bosch injectors that use the same shims and they have the fuel return hole in the center. On those injectors you need to have shims with the hole in the middle. With the Mercedes injectors you do not need to have shims with the hole in the middle. What I do is I put the solid shim all the way at the top of th injector (to the fuel inlet end) followed by the stock shim and then the spring.
However, you can punch the small hole first and line it up by eye before you insert the larger punch and you will end up with a shim with the hole in the center.
The company that makes my shim punch set has a more expensive set that is designed to make shims with a hole in them. You still punch the small center hole first and move it to the larger hole. This time the larger punch has a guide pin the goes into the central hole and perfectly aligns it; resulting in a shim with a hole perfectly centered.
Also those Diesel Kiki shims that I mentioned do not have a hole in the center and when they were in stock in the fuel injection shop I worked in over 25 year ago I would use them on mercedes injectors and they worked fine.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Tip for finding correct thickness of shims needed (with less trial and error):

Take the existing shim(s) out of the injector, re assemble, and then pop test the injector. Record the reading ( it will vary by injector). This allows you to know the baseline pop pressure created by the spring itself. Then, you can simply do the math to determine the correct thickness to get you desired pop pressure. My 2 cents.