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#16
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Thanks skippy. I'll buy one of the sets.
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#17
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It's also easy to ruin the hard line, at which time the job will be neither easy nor inexpensive.
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#18
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Ok more information...Hard lines?
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#19
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Quote:
Turning rotors are frowned upon, due to minimum thicknesses involved. It's not cost effective. New rubber lines are the ones between the steel brake line and caliper. Unless obviously damaged, no need to replace. Available at ********... Valve adjustment wrenches are very handy, yet not necessary. You can make them yourself, if so inclined. They are 14mm bent handled. I have purchased the ones available from **************.com.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#20
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Always use two wrenches on important metal lines... MB says this...LOL
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#21
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hard line=metal
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#22
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So if I need them..are we talking brake hoses or break vacuum lines? I'm guessing brake hoses. About making my own valve adjustment wrenches toomanymbz.....How so? I have a friend who is a welder so if it can be done cheaper and you can give me advice then I'm certainly no rich man. Pretty poor right now in fact....
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#23
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And about the original question....Should I decalcify when I flush my coolant or is that too much trouble to be worth anything. You guys are awesome by the way....
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#24
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NO, you are not allowed to go back to the original question !!!
If you search the archives for ' bent wrenches' using my name...you will find how I made my own.... except the lower out of the three...need to buy that one... |
#25
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Brake hoses.
To make your own bent wrenches, get some cheap 14 mm wrenches, heat them up with a torch at the point where you want to bend them, and bend away.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#26
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You may also need to grind one thinner to get it to hold on just the bottom nut on the valves.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#27
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Fine...screw the original question. How would I really know where they need to be bent and how far?
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#28
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Oh I'll just search your name leathermang. If it makes sense I'll do it. Otherwise I can just get a set from ebay. But the sets on ebay have two wrenches and you're talking about a third?
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#29
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No, now that you have asked it again we are bound to answer it...
I really don't think calcium is a problem most of the time... I do think that rust and even coolant ...which can crystalize... can accumulate in the lower back of the engine coolant cavity because the fluid slow down and turn there.... so the use of a high pressure 90 degree fitting to shoot soapy water into that area enough to dislodge it is important.. In the old days engines would be taken out of the car to be reworked... many times VATTING the engine block does not happen to these engines... VATTING is designed to clean out that stuff I am talking about.... so de calcify in my opinion..no, de grime in that same cavity ...yes... You can see by the pictures how much to bend them...and they need to ' spoon' with each other... |
#30
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further reading leads me to believe that all I need are these two wrenches.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300215471936&rd=1 Correct me if I'm wrong. |
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