OK now to remove the Head do I have to remove the camshaft? http://mb.auto.pl/wis/w124/CD01/Engine/602_603/05-220.pdf

I see that need to unscrew both hexagon bolts on camshaft bearing cap 1,5,6 and slacken bot hexagon bolts on camshaft bearing cap 2,3,4,and 7 in increments of one turn. BUT what about the head bolts how do I remove them the picture is not clear on the numbers for the head bolts? What are the parts that I will need for all of this repair?

If you have a long enough triple-square / torx bit, you will be able to take the row of head bolts beneath the camshaft with the cam in, if not you'll need to remove the camshaft to get that row of bolts.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

That much oil going past the guides on all cylinders? Can you contact the original owner and find out if symptom started overnight or gradually worked into it. If it surfaced in less than a week and the engine had no indication of heavy oil consumption before the event it is not the guides. Or not the only problem here.

There is evidence of a lot of oil here. So much so it is not even consumed. I would inspect the valve seals before pulling the head. They would almost have to totally break up to process this amount of oil I think. Also check to see the return oil gallery on the head is not obstructed.
I had a mercedes six cylinder gas that had no valve seals on it whatsoever . More years ago than I care to remember. It needed a few guides as well. It burnt a lot of oil but not to the extent of dripping out the tailpipe.
I purchased it this way. Apparently someone refaced the seats and valves but left the stem seals off. Remember there is a constant vaccum to aid pulling oil down the gas intake guides . Diesels usually have it far easier in comparison.
If you cannot contact the last owner I would really work to eliminate the turbo as the source before pulling the head. You also commented that number one cylinder is wetter than the others. Maybe a combined fault? Can you not disonnect the turbo from the intake stream for a test? Just run the car and watch if the smoke is far less and dripping out the tailpipe is reducing. .Just nuch less smoking would indicate something.

You must isolate the actual cause or causes prior to removing the head if it comes to it. I have no trouble with valve seals and guides either. Just make sure what exactly it is by testing. It is usually too late to test when the engine is disabled for repair.
To be fair Brian is probably right. The reason the oil is not consumed is it does not get to the combustion chambers. It comes down the exhaust guide and lays around the exahst valve area. When the valve starts to open the exhaust pressure from the cylinder drives most of it it down the manifold and out the tailpipe unburnt. Thats the only way I too can think of the engine is not running up in some fashion on the excess oil.
Now if it is also entering number one cylinder from a faulty gasket that may be producing a greater flow since number one is extra wet. Could be a combination of extreme guide wear and faulty head gasket. The last owner for example might have driven with failing guides and when the head gasket let go as well just called it a day. If the return passage from the head were sludged up. Highly unlikely but the top of the guides might be submerged in oil. I have no knowledge of the 603 head layout for oil returns.

I only pulled the injector off of cylinder one and seen it was wet didn't pull the rest. Can I test the engine without the exhaust manifold on? What do I do with oil tube that is for the Turbo? Oh the turbo is off now also pulled off the intake and injector fuel lines. Would it be to late to conduct a presser test with all of these components off?

I talked to the original owner and he told me that one day the car started to smoke like a train and thats when he parked it he didn't want to get a ticket for driving the car. He also tells me that he never notice oil coming out of the tail pipe. Had it parked for about month then it started he started the car up thats when he seen the oil out of the tail pipe. NOW I'm only going by what he's telling me.

With a good size fire extinguisher present you should be able to start it unless someone comes up with a good reason not too. The risk is yours but minimal in my opinion with someone to turn the key on/ off with you and the fire extinguisher present out front. Wear a plastic face shield or at least safety glasses as you do not want anything blown in your eyes.
The wet #1 injector if the others are dry in comparison of course indicates the head gasket. You can verify this with the manifold off and engine running. It will become very wet really fast on the number one runner. I would clean all the runners and surrounding area to get a better indication before starting up the engine. . I am kind of hoping the oil spread around inside the manifold to just dampen the other runners. There was a lot of it. The test run once they are cleaned up will verify this one way or another.
Keep us posted as I only remember one other gentleman posting about oil from the tailpipe in recent history on this site. He never did post the cause if I remember or I missed that posting.
The rapid onset of the fault if truthful as claimed by the last owner kind of eliminates the valve guides as the primary cause. They might be still worn though.
Oh yes as another additional help. The combustion process on a diesel is over well before a gas cars combustion period. So you should get no flames out the exhaust ports on that head at idle. Lets hope oil just sprays out of the number one runner. Or no oil is coming out of any. Either way it is a pretty conclusive test before you go further one way or another.

I have taken off the intake and the injectors fuel lines. Can I just crank over the engine to see if oil will come out or dose the engine actually have to start up for this test. If I can test this way do I have to unplug the fuel line going to the IP so I don't get fuel all over the place?

Tie the shut off lever in the down position to stop fuel flow in the IP.

Someone mentioned that if there's enough oil getting into the combustion chambers, the engine might start and you'll have no way to stop it. Attach the intake manifold and have a heavy rag or mouse pad handy to choke the inlet so you can stop the engine if necessary.

Sixto
87 300D

What do I do about the turbo oil inlet and return how do I plug or not needed?

You could try the cranking as an indication but suspect you will have to run it to get enough of an indication. Yet the cranking might still provide enough so worth a try.
I do not know the connection type to your tubo. Might use a flat rubber washer and a bolt to shut it off or a piece of rubber hose clamped on and folded over at the loose end with a clamp to keep it that way. A little residual leakage is meaningless but I agree the tube should not be wide open when the engine is running. Almost any creative approach should do.
I think you are very close to finding out what exactly is going on now.

Ok as you can see that oil coming out of cylinder number one. I cranked the engine over and oil was shotting out of the exhaust port on number one. What next to remove the head I know the sequence on how to remove the cam shaft or do I need to remove it? How about removing the head any special way to unbolt the head what sequence?

Are there valve stem seals in the 603? If so have you looked at replacing them?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Looks like I found the problem with oil coming out of the number one calender. But still need to know on how to remove the head bolts to get the head off?

You might have to go on a fishing expedition to find the recommended removal procedure of the head. There were several places on the web the manual was located for viewing.
Perhaps some one can save you time by pointing one out or just pass along the information you need. Or if you have a dealer or independant locally you might want to talk to them. Get your retorque specs at the same time. So you do not have to go hunting twice when it's time to put the head back on. Some libraries have auto repair manuals for foreign cars. If they cover your year and engine they will have at least the head change specks I would think.

Ok pulled off all injectors and only found that the number one had oil in it. When I cranked over the engine with no injectors for compression test oil shot up from the number one cylinder what a mess. So I guess that I need to pull the head off? is the tools needed a TRIPLE SQUARE 12 Point size 10mm or? What is the size needed for the 2 hex bolts that are in the timing chain is it a 6mm? Do I need to remove the cam shaft if I'm only going to do the head gasket or should I have it all check out? If anyone has done this please provide some info and the removal process. Thanks

You have to remove the cam because the cam towers hide some of the head bolts.

Sixto
87 300D