Half - Shaft replacement : one or both is smartest?
 

Ok, my last half shaft question b4 we tear into this puppy:
Looking at all the labor involved, is it best to go ahead and replace both?
A mechanic I talked to recommended that, as he said if one went the other is soon to follow...
Is that anyone's experience here? What do you folks recommend?

Always replaced ONLY the bad 1. Why replace a good part that has lasted 28+ years.

But swapped the good one to the other side & installed the replacement 1 back to the remaining godd 1's previous side.

Total labor should be 2-2.5 hrs!

Hmm, interesting. swap the remaining one to the failed side... cool, reverses the stress on the joints... makes sense... unless failure of the boot is indicated by severe cracking. then going all out with both new makes the most sense.

Ha! For a guy like you maybe! I am bettin the whole weekend is shot for me...:o

I do wonder if swapping is a good idea or if it might just blow out a part that is mighty old and has been runnin one way forever, then to switch all that stress...

But you guys would know; I do trust your advice.

Thanks!

This job is kinda a pain. If you are working on your garage floor, I'd replace both at the same time. Once the diff is opened up, you've done most of the work.

Think about it, if the half shafts are both at the same age (approx 25yo) and have never been replaced or serviced, they are both going to need replacing at some point. The rubber just doesn't last that long. If cash is really really tight, and you have the time (which I don't) then replace one. If you find yourself strapped for time and you have a spare $140, I'd spend the extra $ and replace both.

If you have access to a lift, that changes the labor/value formula ATMO.

Ya, I was hoping to get some help on this one, but it may end up just me on the side of the road. Supposed to rain/snow too..:sweatdrop

I only replaced the bad one - never thought to reverse sides, but I would probably just replace both instead - Once you have BOTH the half shafts out you are like 85% done.

Nasty job - took me 8-10 hours. I was in my garage, and it was not raining or snowing. I don't envy those conditions!

check rear end height?
 

Zeke, do you recommend checking the rear end height on wagons? I have a hunch that mine sits a bit too high, and may have been the cause of the torn boots in the first place.... I might as well adjust the height before installing new CVJs next weekend?

Also, is there a spec rear-end height for wagons? My Haynes manual doesn't list it...

Thanks!

These axle threads are like the Energizer Bunny...they keep going and going and going........

Since our cars are generally about 22 to 25 years old, the rubber has given up the ghost. I expect to continue to see lots of axle threads with the same questions..........

Swapping sides isn't really about stresses.

CV joints usually wear out because the balls are being pressed into the same faces, wear into those drive-side faces. Eventually they will click or pop.

Swapping sides puts the drive-side face on the non-worn side, gives them a new lease on life. Usually the balls don't fail.

If they're open to the weather/dust/dirt, different story.

I searched around here for ride heights when I bought the wagon....I remember the figure 12 inches from center cap (in the wheel) to the fender. Maybe it was 16 inches.....I don't remember now. But the consensus on the "proper" ride height was weak. Do some searching around and you may find that thread I came across.

FWIW, I doubt that ride height is too critical for the rubber boots. When you take the old one out you will see that you have to really crank the inside up and the outside down it to get it in position to remove it - and the boot is relatively unaffected by the angle of the axle.....more likely it's just 25 year old rubber exposed to the elements.

Good luck!

I had both mine replaced when one started to make noise, it seemed silly to do just one.