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#61
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I always jack up the 123 with the hydraulic jack at the rear subframe bushing just inside of the jack hole. that is where I have also used my jack stands.
when I use jack stands at that location, I also use a hydraulic jack under the spare tire well with a thick piece of plywood as a back up. not to hold the car up, but just for a piece of mind. you never know when the next shaker (earth quake) will start to vibrate. I always get nervous with the rear wheels off and it jacked up. the Differential should still be able to drop down jacked at the subframe bushing. To replace the diff mount, place the hyd jack under the diff with a little pressure. loosen the 2 22mm bolts and remove the 4 13mm bolts and lower. w/o a jack, the diff will drop about 5 inches, but still mounted to the subframe. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#62
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OK, thanks. My intent is to jack up by the diff, put stands under the subframe bushing, and then go about my business.
So long as the diff will drop such to allow me to replace the rubber bushing, reseal the cover, and replace axles (if need be), then Im happy! Thanks
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#63
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At the start of this thread, Dave has it laid out really well.
should be a piece of cake . Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#64
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Quote:
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84 300D 255K "Mr B" ("Mr Becker") 79 300D 265K "Mrs B" 85 300TD 175K "Mali" (Sold) 74 Ford F-100 74K "Bonnie" (Sold) 67 Jeepster Commando (Sold) |
#65
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Quote:
These instructions seemto indicate that supporting by the subframe may still allow the diff to move, to do the mount.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#66
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Quote:
The front of the differential is bolted solidly to the subframe, so I had to support the body to allow the differential/sunframe unit to pivot at the rubber subframe mounts in order to lower the differential for access to the upper cover bolts, and to jack it up higher than normal, providing the axles just enough room to clear the outer hubs during removal and installation. I didn't try loosening the shocks. Had I placed the jackstands under the subframe, it would probably have prevented my abilty to raise or lower the diffrential as needed. I decided to place the jackstands under the curved inner fender lip inboard of the rocker-panel, which did deform the lips somewhat. But that absolutely insured there would be no slipping. Maybe next time I could add some blocks of wood, or some thick metal plates to distribute the weigh better, or find some jackstands with larger saddles. Alternately, I could have placed my stands under the outer subframe mounting bolts, and still allow some subframe movement, but I wasn't certain those bolts would provide a secure perch on my jackstands. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#67
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This DIY says
"Install the axle shaft to wheel hub bolts. (30NM torque 8mm bolt, 95 Nm 12mm bolt)" I don't get which bolt is 8mm or 12mm. The bolt I took out of the hub is 13mm. I'm assuming you are referring to the width of the shaft of the bolt, not the head, but I'm confused about witch one I'm dealing with and how hard to torque it. |
#68
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Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#69
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shims
I too used the GSP axles from AA. I bought two axles through AA online and had them shipped to my house. They were running a special on free shipping, plus I had a coupon if I purchased over $100. I think I paid $120 to two axles shipped to my door. I put them on this past summer and have had no issues. As mentioned in an earlier post the axles have a radius edge (instead of flat) so the shim/spacer won't fit flat against the axle. Actually, one of my axles had a radius edge and one was machined flat so maybe GSP made some changes and I just happened to get an old and a new one. There doesn't seem to be a problem with the one with the radius edge.
One thing that I think would be handy to have on hand is an assortment of the shims so that you can finish the job without having to run to the MB dealership (I assume that's where you can buy the shims). It's pretty difficult to measure this gap and then go out and buy the right shim. I had to "file" my original ones down a bit to get them to fit. I would rather have had an assortment of 0.5 mm width shims on hand to test fit. The filing took me a while as I was trying to be real careful. What do I do with my old, original axles? I hate to scrap them since they can probably be rebuilt (I only replaced them as they had just started leaking oil from one of the boots). I'm not rebuilding them mind you but I hate to scrap "good" original MB parts. Would a company like CVJ want them?
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1983 300D |
#70
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if your boots only have slight cracks through the boots, and you replaced them quickly, new flexx boots can be put on, and the originals can be saved for when those Chinese juhnkers fail. I'll be renting my flexx gun soon. and the boots only run around 60.00 for both sides of the car. you should also get some M1 gear oil to fill the cans with.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#71
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By quick fix I mean it is way quicker to use a flexx gun and the thinner boots compared with cutting cans etc etc etc I'm not picking fault - I'm just curious
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#72
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Answer
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#73
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I use exactly what my customers want. MB used the oil. I use the oil in my personal boots. some have asked for oil, some have asked for moly grease. the flexx boots hold either without difficulty. I would not mix the two unless requested to by the customer, but I'd recommend against it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#74
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I also saw a benefit to putting in grease. You can wait until the axles are fitted to the car before you tighten the clamps on the axle shafts. The grease won't fall out and by tightening at the end of the axle installation you can adjust the boot so that it has enough play and make sure it isn't collapsed.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#75
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This was a fantastic instructional. I would never have attempted it were it not for the level of detail included.
However, I would switch the order slightly. Trying to break the 22 mm bushing bolts is really hard when you're wrestling with the sway bar. I wasn't adept enough to pull that off with the breaker bar I had (it was too long from socket to pivot). So instead, I dropped the exhaust pipe to give the differential even more room to drop. Then removed the 13MM bushing-to-floor bolts first (with the jack under it). After that, I lowered the differential's jack well beyond my wagon's fuel tank. Only then did I attempt to tackle the 22 mm bushing bolts with the necessary clearance. |
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