inexpensive 2 tank system
 

Hi all
I am going to be installing a 2 tank system in my 300D. I have found that Coyote Designs has a nice sleek tubular tank, 16 gallons.
I am only going to be using Biodiesel, but I plan to run it in the winter, so in NE I know I need a heater. I don't know if I need a tank heater, aux. fuel pump, or if a Veg-Therm is enough. I think I need a 3 way valve, I was looking at the GreaseCar one.
Any suggestions?

Sounds like another no-name company offering a questionable setup.

Check here: http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums

Explain why you need a two tank system to burn Bio?

WVO/SVO sure; but Bio?

2 tank for bio
 

1st. Coyote Designs only has the tank - all aluminum. I would be designing the rest of the system myself.
2nd. I am considering this 2 tank for BioDiesel because 1. I want to increase the range of my car, and also I want to be able to burn B75 or B50 during the winter by using my main tank as the bio tank and the aux. tank as 100% diesel to start. I am thinking I need some type of in-line fuel heater for winter running, such as VegTherm and perhaps an electric plate heater for the tank.
I would also have the ability to burn WVO with slight modification and funds.

Gel temp of Bio is similar to that of D2 and there is no need to start and stop on D2 burning Bio. That applies to SVO/WVO, as do heaters.

So all I will need is a second tank and some fuel line run thru one 3 way valve to switch from main tank to aux tank? How can I switch the tanks from inside the car?

If you want a cheap way to throw together a 2-tank kit, you should check out Dana Linscott's site:
http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/

He sells plans to build most of your own components very cheaply. His instructions will set you back about $50 (if you buy all of them) but you'll MORE than make up for that cost by following his instructions to make the components yourself. He's also very helpful for any questions you have after you buy the plans.

From what I read, B100 can start to gel as higher as 40F, and obviously all regular anti-gel additives don't work.

1) 40F for Bio-d? Doubtful. I run 90% SVO down to 25F.

2) Actually, yes, regular anti-gel additives do work.

I agree with the previous post. This goes against alot of what I've read too. Maybe the gel point of B15 is similar to diesel, but not B100. TM, please post a source for this info if you have it.

FI, I'm proud of you. You've come full circle. Now you're helping people trying to convert. Why the turn around? Did the Pope's visit strike a chord with you. Whatever the reason, welcome! Well done!

As with anything one must choose thier experts.

This site claims a 10C difference
http://www.uidaho.edu/bioenergy/Bioshortcourse/Diesel_Fuel_Props.htm

This site provides charts of different % blends.
http://www3.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Pages/biodiesel23.html

Looks like it would pay to plug in the block heater regardless of fuel type when it gets down into the teens.

Actually they work great if you add D2. They treat the D2 not the Bio.

Dubmutant, why don't you just burn B75 or B50 in the winter? It is much easier than a 2 tank setup.

Some of my homebrew biodiesel gels near 40 degrees F. But no 2 tank system is needed, just add a little D2 and mix it up in the tank. When it gets 2 cold, just switch to D2 and wait until it warms up to burn biodiesel.

I ran my blend through the winter through Clinton (well, near there...495, 190, 140, 117) single digit temps with no problems. Save your money. PM me if you want some real-world MA feedback.