There are some pretty severe dents (enough to alter fluid capacity specs) in my lower oil pan.
Next oil change I am changing oil cooler and would like to drop the pan for inspection (the car is new to me).

Is there a reasonable means of removing some of these dents? - has anyone tried?

Or is it just a new pan --- the oil pump has a rubber buffer b/w it, and the bottom of the pan - suction issues?.

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A hammer and dolly should do the trick. Don't replace the pan, it will then act as a dent magnet (ask me how I know...)

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Make a skid pan for that thing. On my 300SD the skid pan is factory. But it should not be hard to replicate. The main bars are like an H. The uprights on the H represent bars running parallel to the engine. The front of the bar ties into the frame, the rear of the H ties into the crossmember behind the engine. Central horizontal bar represents the skid part of the "bash" catcher. Has an oval hole for drain plug removal. Of course a picture is worth a thousand words, but I've not installed the hardware onto this computer to give you pictures yet.

Regards

Run-em

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1983 300SD - SPARKY THE DIESEL
2004 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro Roadster
1999 SLK - aka - LIL RED
1956 Chevy Nomad - aka - REAL MAD
1940 Ford dbl dr. Deluxe - aka - ORANGE U GLAD
1998 Kawasaki Nomad bike --

I am a little concerned about hammering out the pan without the surface being mated - wont this deform the surface and cause leaks?

Any tips on keeping this kosher would be greatly appreciated?

Dolly? - I though that was moving large items?

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I once bought a 240D with a badly dented pan. When I pulled it I discovered the oil pump had broken just above the "belled out" part that holds the screen so it was picking up the oil but had the oil level become much lower it woulda been bye, bye engine.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

A new pan is relatively cheap and on your car, relpacement is just a walk in the park. I suggest you buy a new one and do it the right way.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

It will also be a perfect time to address a turbo drain leak if you have one.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Thats what I was waiting to hear.. I'll have to search for the turbo leak though.. not too familiar.

What are used pans going for? $$

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I'm going to replace my turbo drain o-rings at my next oil change. I might have to get a bottle jack to help press the tube out. But I've read that putting a hose clamp around the drain tube will give you a point to pry down to press it into place again. That's the biggest oil leak on my car next to the oil pan gasket. The other bad oil leak was from a rotted out turbo wastegate hose. That one blew oil all over the passenger side motor mount and made it deteriorate.

I almost forgot the leaking oil cooler lines I just replaced too.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I believe I last saw the pans at ~$30, but I may be off a little on that.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

There is a skid plate available from the factory for the W123 cars. It ain't cheap at around $132 from Phil not quite two years ago but for those of us who don't weld it's nice. I posted a DIY thread here.

Mounting points are already built into the W123 chassis. The skid plate doesn't interfere with oil changes (if you still do it the old-fashioned way). It's cheap insurance, IMHO.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

That is very clever, w/ the hose clamp thing. After reading the writeup on here about this issue I was definitely dreading this repair without the car on a lift or at least ramps (none of which I have)

Is there any way to judge the deterioration of this grommet? I do not have the leak at the moment, but with the pan off and a big shipment from Fastlane coming, it may be prudent.

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Mine is kind of spongy and I believe it's supposed to be hard rubber.

If you don't see a leak there I wouldn't worry yet. I would wait until you see the seal where the tube meets the engine looking wet with oil. You have another chance to do that job at every oil change.


Edit: One of the best tool investments I made was jack stands and a full size floor jack (4 ton from SEARS). They have made every job since their purchase much easier.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

In searching for a used pan -- - -it appears that the lower pan from gassers of the same year are the same dimensions?? input? 85 300td

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Mine is also caved in by someone putting a jack under the pan. If I decide to beat out the dent I would try a new paper gasker with the Ultra type Silicone Sealant on both sides of the gasket. This should help seal up any warpage.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel