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  #1  
Old 04-23-2008, 02:03 AM
Registered Hack
 
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A splash in the pan

There are some pretty severe dents (enough to alter fluid capacity specs) in my lower oil pan.
Next oil change I am changing oil cooler and would like to drop the pan for inspection (the car is new to me).

Is there a reasonable means of removing some of these dents? - has anyone tried?

Or is it just a new pan --- the oil pump has a rubber buffer b/w it, and the bottom of the pan - suction issues?.

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Last edited by jt20; 04-30-2008 at 02:21 PM. Reason: noob!
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2008, 02:14 AM
bgkast's Avatar
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A hammer and dolly should do the trick. Don't replace the pan, it will then act as a dent magnet (ask me how I know...)
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2008, 07:33 AM
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And build you....

Make a skid pan for that thing. On my 300SD the skid pan is factory. But it should not be hard to replicate. The main bars are like an H. The uprights on the H represent bars running parallel to the engine. The front of the bar ties into the frame, the rear of the H ties into the crossmember behind the engine. Central horizontal bar represents the skid part of the "bash" catcher. Has an oval hole for drain plug removal. Of course a picture is worth a thousand words, but I've not installed the hardware onto this computer to give you pictures yet.

Regards

Run-em
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2008, 12:54 PM
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I am a little concerned about hammering out the pan without the surface being mated - wont this deform the surface and cause leaks?

Any tips on keeping this kosher would be greatly appreciated?

Dolly? - I though that was moving large items?
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2008, 01:36 PM
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I once bought a 240D with a badly dented pan. When I pulled it I discovered the oil pump had broken just above the "belled out" part that holds the screen so it was picking up the oil but had the oil level become much lower it woulda been bye, bye engine.
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2008, 02:53 PM
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A new pan is relatively cheap and on your car, relpacement is just a walk in the park. I suggest you buy a new one and do it the right way.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2008, 02:59 PM
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It will also be a perfect time to address a turbo drain leak if you have one.
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2008, 03:06 PM
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Thats what I was waiting to hear.. I'll have to search for the turbo leak though.. not too familiar.

What are used pans going for? $$
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  #9  
Old 04-30-2008, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
Thats what I was waiting to hear.. I'll have to search for the turbo leak though.. not too familiar.

What are used pans going for? $$
I'm going to replace my turbo drain o-rings at my next oil change. I might have to get a bottle jack to help press the tube out. But I've read that putting a hose clamp around the drain tube will give you a point to pry down to press it into place again. That's the biggest oil leak on my car next to the oil pan gasket. The other bad oil leak was from a rotted out turbo wastegate hose. That one blew oil all over the passenger side motor mount and made it deteriorate.

I almost forgot the leaking oil cooler lines I just replaced too.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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1986 300SDL - Coda
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2008, 06:02 PM
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I believe I last saw the pans at ~$30, but I may be off a little on that.
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  #11  
Old 04-30-2008, 07:54 PM
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Skid plate

There is a skid plate available from the factory for the W123 cars. It ain't cheap at around $132 from Phil not quite two years ago but for those of us who don't weld it's nice. I posted a DIY thread here.

Mounting points are already built into the W123 chassis. The skid plate doesn't interfere with oil changes (if you still do it the old-fashioned way). It's cheap insurance, IMHO.

Jeremy
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2008, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
I'm going to replace my turbo drain o-rings at my next oil change. I might have to get a bottle jack to help press the tube out. But I've read that putting a hose clamp around the drain tube will give you a point to pry down to press it into place again. That's the biggest oil leak on my car next to the oil pan gasket. The other bad oil leak was from a rotted out turbo wastegate hose. That one blew oil all over the passenger side motor mount and made it deteriorate.

I almost forgot the leaking oil cooler lines I just replaced too.

That is very clever, w/ the hose clamp thing. After reading the writeup on here about this issue I was definitely dreading this repair without the car on a lift or at least ramps (none of which I have)

Is there any way to judge the deterioration of this grommet? I do not have the leak at the moment, but with the pan off and a big shipment from Fastlane coming, it may be prudent.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2008, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
That is very clever, w/ the hose clamp thing. After reading the writeup on here about this issue I was definitely dreading this repair without the car on a lift or at least ramps (none of which I have)

Is there any way to judge the deterioration of this grommet? I do not have the leak at the moment, but with the pan off and a big shipment from Fastlane coming, it may be prudent.
Mine is kind of spongy and I believe it's supposed to be hard rubber.

If you don't see a leak there I wouldn't worry yet. I would wait until you see the seal where the tube meets the engine looking wet with oil. You have another chance to do that job at every oil change.


Edit: One of the best tool investments I made was jack stands and a full size floor jack (4 ton from SEARS). They have made every job since their purchase much easier.
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Last edited by Chad300tdt; 04-30-2008 at 09:03 PM. Reason: add comment
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2008, 02:31 PM
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In searching for a used pan -- - -it appears that the lower pan from gassers of the same year are the same dimensions?? input? 85 300td
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2008, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I am a little concerned about hammering out the pan without the surface being mated - wont this deform the surface and cause leaks?

Any tips on keeping this kosher would be greatly appreciated?

Dolly? - I though that was moving large items?
Mine is also caved in by someone putting a jack under the pan. If I decide to beat out the dent I would try a new paper gasker with the Ultra type Silicone Sealant on both sides of the gasket. This should help seal up any warpage.

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