Engine Swap
 

I'm in the process of doing and engine swap in my 300D.

I've begun frantically disconnecting everything connected to the engine. Is there anything that I could possibly miss? This is the first time I've done this.

Oil pressure line, ground strap, alternator wires, Vacuum shut-off line,...

as many engines as I have pulled and put in, even in the same car sometimes :rolleyes: I always seem to miss something. Dont get in a hurry just move it an inch at a time and watch for things. even if you have everything disconnected things have a way of snagging and getting broken if you move too fast.

On the first one I did, the oil pressure line wouldn't come out (12mm) of the filter housing so, being in a hurry, I cut it. Big mistake, new one was $50, next time I cut it lose at the instrument cluster.

already went through a brake booster line, same way...



ground strap...yep, woulda forgot!



anyone else have and swap experiences?

I'm doing this on my 300D too. PS lines, vacuum pump, fuel lines, exhaust pipe, flex disc...

My Haynes manual actually came in very handy for this. I don't trust myself to think of everything that needs disconnecting.

Pretty simple on the old diesels. I missed the ground strap on my first one, just go slow.

it's a 92 (w124)



little more cramped in the bay...





Radiator and shroud are pulled. Flex disk and mounts by the end of the week.

This link might help: http://mb.auto.pl/wis/w124/CD01/Engine/602_603/01-2400hx.pdf

My first pull was my '87 300D/124, one more cylinder than yours, but it went okay with the trans attached. Be sure you have a cherry-picker with a lot of lift to get over the radiator shroud, the car will need to be up a foot or so to clear the tail-shaft.

Pulled a 603 from a '91 SDL today, spent about 8hours from start to finish including chatting, lunch, and running home for tools. I cheated though, cut the radiator top brace out.

There just isn't that much attached to these engines, not like pulling a '90s Japanese gasser. Take lots of pictures and make lots of notes, the difficult part is when you have the engine back in the hole and aren't sure where a vacuum line goes.

THANKS!

:thumbsup:

fan shroud and radiator are removed


cherry-picker is far larger than needed.

Large is good, extend the legs and boom, the extra lift is good to have. Do you have a "leveler" so you can tilt and level the engine as you pull it? I didn't on my 124, big pain as the engine came out at about a 30*-40* nose-high angle to clear the transmission, but then to get the tailshaft over the radiator upper support it had to go sky-high. A leveler would have saved me some grief.

The inner-firewall aluminum shroud on the passenger side is good to have out, gives better access to the exhaust. Easiest to remove the flex-pipe from the turbo, the exhaust gave me more trouble than anything, next most was getting the driveshaft free from the transmission. Watch for those transmission wires!

I will have a leveler or whatever you call the tilting attachment for the picker.


I'm NOT looking forward to the flex disk, as I dont have a car lift and I hate working upside down...

It's not a big deal, just that you can remove most of the bolts, then you have to rotate the rear wheel(s) to rotate the driveshaft and remove the other ones. I lift one rear wheel (don't forget to chock wheels).

Floor jack and jackstands work for me. A lift when (if) I grow up.

Dont forget to loosen the exhaust like i did, then go to pull the engine and scratch you head at why it wouldnt come out from the shaft, In too much of hurry.

For this kinda hazard i like hobby store model paint kits, tiny little bottles covering 9 different colors. Use plucked Q-tips for brushes. One dot on disconnect at each end and no problem. Coding wires like to starter motor too. Paintmark driveshaft to coupling in case its ballanced as unit at the factory. Also tranny mount position, shift rods etc.