I went for an alignment today and just as I thought they wouldn't do it. They said both my lowers were bad. Is this as involved as the W124 writeup in the DIY section? I realize I need a press of some sort but is it that involved just to get at the joint? I have done alot of work on the car myself but nothing really involved with the front suspension.

They quoted me $300 for replacement of both plus the alignment. Is it worth the aggrevation?

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

For what it's worth, I paid close to that for 1 ball joint on my w123...

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1989 300E 144K

I think you will also need something to compress the springs as well as something to press off the ball joint. Out here in CA the chain type autopart store loan out some tools. They may have a ball joint press that would work.
Also the stem with the threaded end on ball joints is most often tapered and they are wedged in tight. Some heat with a propane tourch is help full to loosen them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

For 300 I would just have it done. The shop here was over $1000. All I wanted was to stop the tire wear.... I still need to do mine....

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

No spring compressor needed for the ball joints, the puller can be had from advanced auto and I believe Napa sells one for under $20. If you do it yourself get some dry ice to make the job easy as 123.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Agreed, no need to remove the LCA just to replace the ball joint. Still not easy.

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83 SD

84 CD

For $300 to replace both there is no way I would do it myself, unless of course you have the time, space to work on it, the tools and a desire to spend a few hours under your SD, but thats just me and my $.02 worth.

I agree, especially since this price includes the alignment!

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

It doesn't include the alignment. He said + alignment.

This job is not really hard at all but you will need some tools.
The ball joint press rental from AutoZone will work just fine.

The AutoZone pickle fork rental will work to seperate the lower ball joint but you'll need something better for the upper joint so you don't ruin it.
A full description with the tools you'll need can be found here:
Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question

Go to http://www.httrack.com/ and download their free program.

Then use it to copy this website onto your computer.

http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/

It only has the 123 manual but it covers the OM617 turbo diesel engine. Find the section on removing steering knuckle, upper control arm and ball joint.


If you do it or pay to do it make sure the sway bar bushings are replaced too.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
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The price of $300 INLCUDES the alignment. The bottom line is I like to do alot of my own work. Not only does it save you money but you have that good feeling. I have 8 motorcycles in my garage/basement. I just got the top end of my Triumph back together after having it apart twice. I have the front wheel from my Ducati getting straightened and refinished and I'll have to do the brakes and put that wheel back on. I just put front brakes on my wife's Escort. I just changed the tranny fluid and filter on the Benz plus I had to pay to have the guide rod kit installed. Not only that, but I just put new rotors/pads on the rear. I just put a ball joint on my Subaru as well as took the front calipers apart and cleaned them to get rid of my front end shimmy. My dad's Outback has the check engine light on and I have the knock sensor to install. My Dune Buggy is sitting in the garage gathering dust from an engine fire. I have another motor to rebuild but that is on the back burner. I also have a '79 KZ 650 that I have to rebuild carbs on.

I am just feeling kind of overwhelmed at this point. Not only do I have all the automotive work but I have yard work as well. I guess I have answered my own question. I will have to save up over the next couple of months to get this fixed.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I agree with your logic; if it's fun then do it yourself, if its a PITA have someone else do it. Suspension work is definitely in the PITA category.

It's all a matter of having the right tools. With the right equipment, it's a walk in the park. Try it with Autozone loaner tools and it's another story.

$300 is cheeeep- what kind of parts do they use?
if it's something like duralast from autozoo??- I'd pass.
maybe you can bring in a pair of lemforder's and still get that price?

also how are the uppers? inner lca bushings?etc,...

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

this should give you an idea as to what you are getting into

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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

Just dont forget the dry ice!

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42