Hi folks:

I found a replacement oil cooler for my 1971 220D and am in the process of removing the old one. I've removed the two carriage-like bolts, but the oil cooler is soddered (spelling?) to the radiator at the top and bottom. I was able to get the top loose, but the bottom is still holding fast to the radiator. How do I get it off? Please excuse me if this question seems ridiculous as I am new to all this, and don't know how dangerous it is to heat up something that has radiator fluid and oil in and around it. Any advice?

Question #2: the replacement is a right-mounting rather than left-mounting oil cooler. It was previosly on another car, and whoever installed it, attached it to the radiator upside down? Will this work so I can mount it to the left of my radiator?

Thanks,

Vernon

Your replacement oil cooler doesn`t care which way the oil flows. the one on my 85 w123 mounts on the left side of the radiator (drivers). oil flows into the bottom, and out the top. there are no check valves in them.

as far as the solder problem, can`t help you there. not familiar with your model car. any way to pull the radiator and cooler together? maybe take to a radiator shop. or just get a big hammer and........ ummm NO.

Charlie ☺

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Dose it look like it was soldered by the factory or a prior owner repair job?
The big worry is that you do not want to un-solder the inside of radiator it self. Having fluid in the radiator will help keep the heat from spreading to the wrong places. If there is room to get a propane torch in there and you can keep all of the heat on the oil cooler side it may be possible to un-solder it without over heating the soldered parts on the radiator.
But, as the 1 member mentioned it would be safer to remove the radiator/oil cooler out and let a radiator shop un-solder it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

its probably nickel silver brazing filler. If its factory that is. There is actually a lot of brazing on these cars, you just have to look

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Vernontnh,

That's "soldered". The l is silent.

What material is the oil cooler made from?

P E H

You know, that's what I thought, but my wife said I was wrong. First time in 15 years I've been right and she was wrong on the matter of spelling.

Vernon

\

Might end up taking it to a radiator shop.
Thanks for your reply.

and you can prove it in writing too

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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

I would judge it to be a factory job. I might try the propane thing. But yeah, I should probably take it to a radiator shop.

Thanks,

Vernon

I doubt it was soldered at the factory.

I agree unless you really know your stuff about rads to take it to a shop.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.