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-   -   w123 water pump replacement: Remove Radiator? (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/220634-w123-water-pump-replacement-remove-radiator.html)

MattBelliveau 04-28-2008 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi (Post 1837823)
Once you remove the fan and shroud, there is plenty of room to work, with the radiator in place.

That's what I wanted to hear. Thanks, all. As easy as it seems, maybe I'll do a writeup.

bgkast 04-28-2008 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBeige (Post 1837576)
If it's an automatic, it will also have two transmission cooler lines attached to it. Just so you don't snag on them.

I forgot about all you poor saps with slushboxes. :D

bgkast 04-28-2008 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 1837712)
For what it's worth, the MB 617 Service Manual does not call for the removal of the radiator when replacing the water pump.

The FSM assumes that every thing is in good shape and you don't bust a bolt off or something...

t walgamuth 04-28-2008 11:19 AM

In my experience, the hoses last longer than the radiators. I wouldn't be durprised if 3/4 of all the hoses on my 123 cars are factory original. I don't change them if they are still good. I doubt that any replacements will be as good as the originals.

Tom W

lietuviai 04-28-2008 10:34 PM

My hoses appear original as well as the clamps. They all looked just fine.

The Gears 04-28-2008 11:02 PM

Apply WD 40 or other to the bolts holding the pump in place a couple of times. Make sure the wrench is a good fit so as not to round the heads. Just remove the black plastic fan shroud then the fan to get easy access to the front of the pump. Easy on the bolts. Don't use a pump with a stamped metal impellar. Should be cast either in metal or plastic with a proper curves blades.

Renntag 10-20-2008 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Gears (Post 1838524)
... Don't use a pump with a stamped metal impellar. Should be cast either in metal or plastic with a proper curves blades.

Why is this?

I am going to be tearing into the front of the motor tonight/tomorrow as it appears that is where the puddle in the driveway originated from.

I ordered a w/p gasket set from my auto parts store on the off chance its just a gasket issue and not an internal seal issue.

Water pump is simple, housing, bearing, impeller, and a seal. yes? I am hoping its just a gasket failure and not leaking around the shaft.

Does anyone know if there are more factory manuals available? or the same info on CD/DVD?

Thanks.

rrgrassi 10-20-2008 04:40 PM

The cast metal is much stronger and lasts longer thant the stamped out sheet metal.

My rebuilt one from O'Reilly was the cast type.

coonerboy 10-20-2008 04:49 PM

Another point to make is there are 2 weep holes on these water pumps. One on the top and one on the bottom that you would likely never see or know was there without removing the pump.

rrgrassi 10-20-2008 04:53 PM

I never heard of a weep hole up top. Wouldn't that let grit and other stuff in?

85 DSEL 10-20-2008 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi (Post 1997945)
I never heard of a weep hole up top. Wouldn't that let grit and other stuff in?

Can't confirm or deny. BUT, FWIW mine has a weep hole on top - the one that's one the car at time of this post. Not sure about the WP I just ordered from NAPA today (made by Gates) but I plan to pick it up tomorrow and then I'll know! :D

t walgamuth 10-20-2008 09:34 PM

Its a dry galley so the hole on top is insignificant. What gets in can get out.


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