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300D A/C strike 3
1984 Mbz 300D Turbo. 226k GreaseCar
27k miles ago when I bought the car to grease it, it had no belt on the A/C compressor. I had my indy put in a new A/C Compressor, Receiver drier, temp sensor the works. It ran poorly for several months and he added more R134a. Not impressed for some more months and then it blow up. Freon all over the left side of the car. $880 later its fixed again, this time by a Local Auto Shop. The old compressor was out of its 60 day warrantee and the new part is different now. More expensive. It works OK at highways speeds. Took the cardboard off the grill but AC is still just above poor. have to put some towels on the dash to stop defroster. . Does the button to the right of Defrost use the vents by the feet too? Those don't work. Why is this car on self destruct mode? Should I dump it before the AC goes again, next year? |
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these cars suck with r134 in them get that out and get some real r12 or freeze12. also there are vacuum dashpots connected to the vents if the feet vents dont work then the vacuum diaphrams on those certain vacuum dashpots are shot and need to be replaced. you can get freeze12 off of ebay for way cheaper than anyother person is going to sell it to you for. you have already put alot of money into it and the a/c is almost prefect just keep it. Did the person that fixed it tell you the car ran with r12 originally or did he just put in the r134. i say this because i think you are supposed to flush the system before putting in the r134. that right there could have made something go wrong. if that was the case i would leave him at fault.
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#3
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R134a success story
I realize this is not the majority of the opinions expressed; however, 42 degrees F at the vent is pretty good. My 300D does it. Of course, I did all the AC work myself and I flushed the system VERY good from all openings. I replaced the compressor, drier, and expansion valve last summer.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#5
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Followed the documentation from the dieselgiant website. This forum gave me the simple fix for the dash vents. In a 1985, the dash vents have the turn vent adjusters, so the pod arm can be slipped off. For heat, just clost the vent.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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#7
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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I've never seen anyone with one of these cars that had "great" a/c at idle, regardless of the refrigerant. It should be anywhere from somewhat cold to cool at idle though, unless you are in stop and go traffic and stopping more than you are go-ing. Sounds to me like the initial work was done shoddily, or perhaps just bad luck with the compressor. Some mechs. do not flush the system as well as they should, nor test the system by pulling a vac for long enough and checking for leaks. I also have had good results by following dieselgiant's procedure, r-134, synthetic poe oil, new compressor, expansion valve and dryer, and a thorough flushing. 44 deg at the vent. The middle button on the CCU seems to work the best, with the center vents rigged to stay open there isn't a huge volume of air coming from the defrost outflow vents.
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1985 300D Gretchen (Astral Silver) 220k 1983 240D 4-speed Evelyn (Orient Red) 203k TANSTAAFL |
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Mine is blowing about 55 degrees at idle and 40 on the move.
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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126.. - Do I miss being a service advisor ??? |
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And in the dead of a Texas summer you aren't gonna get in the low 40's with R12 or Freeze12 with the stock W123 AC system. That would require I imagine a parallel flow condenser to achieve the lowest possible. These cars just don't get as cold as most when the heat is really on...... Um, they should do a heck of a lot better than the original poster of this thread is getting......
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John Last edited by JimmyL; 05-02-2008 at 01:39 AM. |
#11
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well if the condenser was covered when in use the system most likely overheated. The only thing that would get destroyed from the heat would be the compressor. replace the compressor and you should be good to go.
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#12
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Search for "black death" to see what a problem this can become. |
#13
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Matt L the new compressor was on for a minute or two and back to the shop it went. Blown compessor again. Black death syndrom maybe. Now my brake light is on and will spend another 900 buck for that. Its geting harder to break even with this GreaseCar. I just cant wait until diesel goes up to $10a gallon so I can justify having this clonker.
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#14
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Maybe you should dump it before you kill it with grease.
My AC is 38F with R-12, I tried R-134a for about a year (until the compressor blew up) and was never happy with the performance. |
#15
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My AC is 38F at idle, recirculate off, fan on 4/7 (just over half). That's blowing pretty hard for such cold air, and that's 134a. My system is designed for that stuff and apparently it works pretty well. That's not all it's own fault. I was suffering from a restricted dryer for about a year before I tore into it.
Crappy, I bought a HECAT pulsating flush gun from www.ackits.com, and I can't recommend it enough for cleaning out your system. It's a lot better than the standard flush guns, as it sends bursts of fluid and compressed air through the part. The flush solvent is expensive, but there's no fix for that. It's important to eschew chemicals that will attack your oil, refrigerant or rubber lines. I wanted the system flushed after 12 years of use and 200K miles, and didn't want to ask a shop to do it. For what they would have to charge for the job, I bought all of the tools and had enough money left over to have my existing refrigerant legally reclaimed, plus a bunch. |
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