If you don't have a voltmeter to check for power to the glow plugs, use a jumper wire from one of the glow plugs to the battery positive for 5 seconds and then try to start. If it starts easily, you most likely have a bad glow relay.

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1971 R600 Mack toterhome (SuperDawg)
99 NU-WA Snowbird 34+2 SE 102 5er
If it's not diesel, it's not in my stable!
53 F100 617.951/auto
95 Dodge 3500 Cummins/5 speed service truck

What kind of oil is being used?

Have you done a compression check on the cylinders?

Seems to me that it's very possible you need a valve adjust...it's most important at the time of starting that your compression be strong...

Compression builds the heat that causes the fire....if you lack compression (by a late closing valve or early opening valve or a sticking valve) you fail to build the heat necessary to initiate combustion...

But then again, I'm a telephone guy that only does mechanics for fun....you really need to hear from one of the experts around here...maybe Brian or someone else...If R Leo happens by, he's a good one too.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

The valve clearances should be done every 15k anyways. Many of these older models have not even been checked for years and years. You can burn or ruin the seal of exhaust valves by not at least checking.
Just check with a feeler gauge to see what you have. Once you verify you have reasonable valve clearances then perhaps a compression check. Basically once you know the essentials are good enough it gets much easier to find the cause.
Without that knowledge it becomes somewhat of a guessing game. Especially on a newer aquisition. Why did the mechanical shop send it back to the past owner not fixed?

Who knows...he said that he was trying to get it started with starting fluid. One of the glow plugs was dead and he didn't take the time to replace it. I am wondering why he was trying to start it with starting fluid

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68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

One of you guys mentioned that it might be the ground cable or starter. I checked the ground cable and they were not loose...the cable from the chasis to the belhousing and the battery cable to ground were all snug.
If it were the starter....how would I go about checking to see if it is bad? At some times the starter seems to turn a little faster and a little slower....are there rebuild kits for these things or do I need to buy a new one? What should it sound like? It kinda sounds like chug-a-chug-a-chug-chug. I tried to start it right now and it wont start in the heat of the day...this might explain if the valves are off, but i dont have any backfires. thanks stephen

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68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

Well, we have had a couple warm days here...90 degrees plus...and she wont start. After these warm days I have eliminated the glow plugs, because I replaced them and I have power to them. I noticed that the cranking RPM was getting lower and lower. I did a load test with an old school battery load test tool for 12 seconds and it held just under 12 volts, but when I cranked the engine it sounds like the battery is dying and has no power. Do these symptoms tell you that my starter is not getting enough power...i.e. i need a new starter? Also I have checked the ground connections and they are firmly bolted in place. thanks guys, Stephen

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68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

Use your load tester to check to voltage during cranking.

If it drop precipitously, then the battery is suspect.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Assuming, of course, your cables and connections are still sound.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Did you charge the battery in between starting attempts?
Is it the correct battery for the vehicle?

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles

I tried starting it and it sounded like the battery was dying....so i load tested it....did not charge it.... and tried starting again and it sounded like the battery was dying. so the battery is holding a charge but that charge is not getting to the starter?
-Stephen

__________________
68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

It is the right battery 850 C.C.A. and 1000 C.A. The load tester simulates a load similar to starting, therfore cranking it while under the load tester would be redunatant, right?

__________________
68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

Don't forget to check the glow plug fuse. It's a solid metal fuse in the glow plug controller box. Mine failed in the summer when it was about 85F, the battery was strong and it WOULD NOT START for anything. There was a hairline crack across then fuse. The voltage potential was about 12V, but of course, there was no significant current. Go ahead and jumper it with a 20 gauge wire. Worth a try.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I checked the glow plugs and replaced them. I checked the fuse and it is obvious that it has been replaced recently
-stephen

__________________
68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

x2.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Please describe your test to verify that there is 12V at the glow plugs.