Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-27-2008, 11:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 105
Transmission Filter Replacement

So what's the secret to getting the transmission pan gasket to seat properly? I replaced the filter on the '79 300sd. Fluid started leaking out at the pan/case. It was coming out pretty fast (not just a slight weeping). I tried a couple of times to get the pan/gasket and case aligned but no luck.
Should I try dome gasket sealer to keep the gasket on the pan while I'm attaching it to the body?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-28-2008, 12:21 AM
High River Alberta Canada
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: High River, Alberta,Canada
Posts: 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesNB View Post
So what's the secret to getting the transmission pan gasket to seat properly? I replaced the filter on the '79 300sd. Fluid started leaking out at the pan/case. It was coming out pretty fast (not just a slight weeping). I tried a couple of times to get the pan/gasket and case aligned but no luck.
Should I try dome gasket sealer to keep the gasket on the pan while I'm attaching it to the body?
hmmm, Shouldn't be necessary, usually when that happens I have found the pan had been dented in and was not a flat shape at the gasket surface anymore. If your pan is damaged at all you may want to check the wreckers for one that isn't
__________________
Thanx,
Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alberta Luthier View Post
hmmm, Shouldn't be necessary, usually when that happens I have found the pan had been dented in and was not a flat shape at the gasket surface anymore. If your pan is damaged at all you may want to check the wreckers for one that isn't
There are some scratches on the bottom of the pan making me think something was run over at some point.
Is there any harm in using some gasket sealer or Indian Head to get the gasket to seal to the pan and then attach to the case?
I'd really like to get this dealt with soon. In addition to doing the oil and transmission fluid and filter changes, I'm in the mist of the Citric Acid flush of the radiator. So I need to get it running so I can flush all the citric acid out.
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-28-2008, 04:31 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
If you can, put the cover upside down on a flat surface, to check for flatness.
It won't hurt to use a gasket "holder" type stuff, but I didn't need to.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-28-2008, 07:11 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new braunfels, TX
Posts: 290
How old is the gasket? They can harden with time and not seal.
__________________
Dave
1983 300D Daily Driver







Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-28-2008, 09:56 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by blindwolf View Post
How old is the gasket? They can harden with time and not seal.
I threw away the old gasket. I used the new one that came in the filter kit.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-28-2008, 11:20 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new braunfels, TX
Posts: 290
I would use silicon sealant to help the gasket until you can get a new pan. Put the silicon on and wait about 30 minutes for it to skin before installing the pan and using the cross tightening method, you should be good to go.
__________________
Dave
1983 300D Daily Driver







Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-28-2008, 12:22 PM
Willing Participant
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 1,394
Don't overtorque the bolts or else the pan will warp.
My guess is that you need a new pan.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-28-2008, 12:50 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 6,528
I had what I thought was a pan leak when I changed the fluid on my now sold '85. When I was adding fluid it began pouring out under the car. I drained the fluid, checked my pan seal (also new) and tried again with the same results. Somebody then told me to start the car after adding a few quarts of ATF to fill the torque converter before adding the rest of the ATF. I did that and it stopped pouring out the bottom. I think there must be some sort of overflow hole that the fluid will come out of if fluid level in the transmission gets too high.
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-28-2008, 01:07 PM
Willing Participant
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 1,394
That's a new one to me. Of course, I've never bothered with the TC...
__________________
1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-28-2008, 01:37 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 6,528
I’m not positive the overflow exists, all I know is when I tried to add the specified amount of fluid with out filling the torque converter part-way through I would end up with a mess.
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-28-2008, 08:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: California
Posts: 177
It's best to also drain the torque converter. It holds at least 2 liters of trans fluid and is easy to drain.

The FSM procedure for refilling the transmission is:

1. Actuate parking brake
2. Insert funnel into transmission dipstick hole and with engine stopped, fill in approx 4 liters.
3. Start engine with selector in 'P' position. Gradually add remaining fluid. Move selector thru all positions, pausing in each position for several seconds, then return to 'P' position.
4. Correct fluid level.
__________________
Neil.


1991 190E 2.6 170k
1995 E320CA 57k
1999 Chevy Tahoe 98k
2000 R1150GS 45k
1983 300CD 178k - sold, but not forgotten
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-29-2008, 01:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by blindwolf View Post
I would use silicon sealant to help the gasket until you can get a new pan. Put the silicon on and wait about 30 minutes for it to skin before installing the pan and using the cross tightening method, you should be good to go.
Thanks to everybody for your help.
That's exactly what I did. It seems to have worked. I cleaned the pan with Brake Cleaner and let it dry. Also cleaned the gasket with a blue shop towel. Then ran a small bead of RTV on the inside of the gasket. Placed it over the pan. One side seemed to be a little harder to seat. Laid the pan on a sheet of newspaper (on the garage floor), gasket side down for about 30 min. I used a jack to hold the pan as I aligned it and added a little pressure at a time. Once it seemed to be seated properly, I hand tightened the bolts and then torqued them down in the criss-cross pattern. I torqued them down pretty good. I didn't remember to grab the torque wrench when I crawled under the car.
I added a quart and checked for leaks then a half, then another quart. At three quarts I fired it up and let it warm up, ran through the gears and topped it off. I went for a drive and there are no leaks.
The pan was a touch out of square but it was holding before and it's holding now. I'll keep my eyes open for a good used pan for next time but things look good for now.
Also, while under there, I noticed the vacuum line has disconnected from the modulator. I reconnected it but it seems like it needs a spring clamp to hold it in place. It's been shifting hard since I bought it. I'm thinking this may solve it.
Thanks again for the help.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page