![]() |
Sure R-134a works just fine in a system that was designed for it, the problem is trying to make it work in a R-12 system. The original R-12 systems were not exactly oversized to begin with, running R-134a at anything above about 85F is a real challenge, and the pressures are tough on the compressor.
|
Indeed. I do advocate converting R12 systems to 134a.
|
Quote:
|
And not just the performance either! The higher head pressures associated with R134A are what is burning up the compressor and eating it alive. I would go with R12 First, but if that is not an option, then Envirosafe works well and it is legal in most states. It will also reduce the load on your compressor and your engine.:D
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
how do these two messages relate? |
gents,
i have a little problem re identification: i cleaned off my AC compressor on my 87 300DT and the sticker w/ the serial # was scratched out. looks like this might have been a salvage part and the yard (by law?) scratched out the serial #. anyways, i carefully peeled off some of the sticker nad i believe it said nippondenso. so are ND A/Cs R12 or R134? are there other, physical telltale signs? also, like craig said, above 85F my A/C is really struggling. when i got my car last summer, i literally had to park under the shade and run the AC for a good 3 minutes before getting it. i intend to learn more about the AC and fix it during the winter months. |
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks, Craig. To be specific, I do NOT advocate converting R12 systems to R134a. |
300D Strike 4
Another day another blown A/C unit. Just keeping a diary here. Maybe this one is still under warrantee. :confused:
|
Quote:
|
If you are ever in the area and want it converted back to r12 let me know. I convert them back fairly regularly and successfully for a very fair price for labor and r12. I go with all new parts and get good prices on new Delco r4 compressors and whatever a/c parts that it will needed.
In regards to your blowup it sounds like you have a plugged high side which results in the pressure opening the relief valve at around 400 psi. This indicates a health compressor by the way:). It makes quite a fuss when it relieves. If that is not it then you have a busted/leaking hose or connection somewhere. You will never be happy with the r134 if you live in the south unless you install a p-flow condenser. |
Just be thankful you don't have a servo!
|
.................................................................................................... .......................................................
|
[QUOTE=Matt L;1841524]If you get compressor fragments distributed throughout the system, replacing the compressor gets a lot more involved. If you have a parallel-flow condenser, it will likely need to be replaced as you cannot flush these very well.
Loos canon post. Sorry |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:26 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website