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  #16  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project84300sd View Post
valves done, new mounts, fuel filter bolt tight, new fuel filters, no air bubbles in primary fuel filter.. still got the shakes... my rack bolt is silver -- could this be the problem? The spring still seems firm though.. if i unscrew the damper bolt the motor starts shakin like crazy and with the damper bolt tightened all the way in it reduces it but it still shakes a little bit.. also it seems like the engine has the 'hiccups' when i first start it. i have to gas it to smooth it out... any ideas??????

mine did the *exact* same thing when I had a leak in my secondary fuel filter from putting an o ring in the wrong spot ( ) briefly. Double check...

Have you tried running the engine off of an 'auxillary' tank like you would for a diesel purge?

how about your primer pump? hows that looking?

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  #17  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:09 AM
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new primer pump as well..... updated bosch one.. come to think of it i dont recall seeing an o-ring when i replaced the secondary fuel filter... also I think it was doing the same thing with the diesel purge i ran through it... i guess i will try filling an empty milk carton with diesel and running an aux tank to see what happens...
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:09 AM
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btw do you have a pic of where this o-ring should be on the secondary fuel filter?
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  #19  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by turbobenz View Post
car shakes only when hot for me, How can I tell where air is leaking into my system, if air is leaking into my system. The thing is that the car that this engine was in, when the car was totaled, didnt shake like this. I ran it and stuff before the swap and it didnt shake. After I swapped it in it shakes now. So i dont think its low compression on a cylinder, all valves are good I checked. I replaced the nozzles, now it has more power but still shakes.


new motor mounts.
Ive tried the dampner bolt from my low mileage car, no difference.
Did you adjust the RD bolt for this engine, from the other car?

When the engine starts at 50, does it stumble then too?

You should replace the washer, it's called a crush washer for a reason, it deforms to make a seal, a one time use. And yes, that can cause air to gey in the system.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2008, 04:58 PM
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What RPM does the car idle at?
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  #21  
Old 05-03-2008, 05:28 PM
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750rpm


Im going to replace all the oir rings on the filter and all the crush washers on the filter/injection pumpe. In fact im leaving for napa right now, its the only place that carries crush washers. Ill also try the aux tank thing. Yes, the car will stumble if i cold start it without gp's, just like with glow plugs. However today it did not stumble.
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  #22  
Old 05-03-2008, 07:25 PM
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OK. This sucks. Ive gotten most of the crush washers. Knowone carried aluminum ones so i had to use copper. I did not however find the crush washer for the fuel filter. I went to the dealer, hardware store, and 3 autoparts stores (only napa knew what a crush washer was).


After replacing the ones i obtained I still have a rough idle, so if it is air, it didnt solve it. Im going to the local euro mechanic monday, I usualy order parts from him so he should be able to get it. Dealer cant even get it. Their scematic shows no seal on that bolt, not even the o-rings. The goof at the parts counter didnt even know they made washers out of aluminum
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  #23  
Old 05-04-2008, 12:06 AM
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How much did NAPA charge for the Fuel Ijection Pump Crush Washers?
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2008, 05:41 AM
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Somewhere in this thread is the washer size. I have picked up a composite washer at the local hardware store, worked fine.

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