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  #16  
Old 05-02-2008, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The notch is in the balancer.
Dang! Sorry, curse my faulty memory.


Are you certain you need to replace it??
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  #17  
Old 05-03-2008, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The notch is in the balancer. You need to remove the pulley and the vibration damper form the balancer (secured by six socket head cap screws), then rotate the crankshaft to align the notch in the balancer with the housing bolt. Don't even think about removing the balancer.
Can we review this?

I definitely removed the water pump housing from the SD and I did not remove the pulley and the vibration damper to accomplish that task. Been two years ago so I don't recall the steps.............
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2008, 09:52 AM
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The water pump and water pump housing are two different things. Do you really mean "water pump housing?"
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  #19  
Old 05-03-2008, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The water pump and water pump housing are two different things. Do you really mean "water pump housing?"
I realize that. I definitely removed the housing behind the pump to clean it up. It has a small gasket...........much smaller than the housing..........that seals the outlet. I recall fighting with the dealer for the proper gasket.........not realizing that the large housing doesn't have a gasket..........just the outlet.

So, I'm positive that I removed the housing without removing the lower pulley.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2008, 10:06 AM
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What are the shop hours for this job? Mine has a very small leak.
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  #21  
Old 05-03-2008, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
So, I'm positive that I removed the housing without removing the lower pulley.

How did you get the torque wrench on the bolt when you reinstalled it?

The 617 Engine Manual definitely calls for the removal of the pulley and vibration damper. Then it specifies that the crankshaft be rotated to align the recess in the balancer with the lower housing bolt.

Given the fact that removing the pulley/damper is relatively easy, I fail to see any great benefit to inventing alternative means of compliance. Considering that the pulley bolts are prone to losing torque and shearing, removing and reinstalling them with the proper torque might be a secondary benefit, anyway.
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  #22  
Old 05-03-2008, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
How did you get the torque wrench on the bolt when you reinstalled it?

The 617 Engine Manual definitely calls for the removal of the pulley and vibration damper. Then it specifies that the crankshaft be rotated to align the recess in the balancer with the lower housing bolt.

Given the fact that removing the pulley/damper is relatively easy, I fail to see any great benefit to inventing alternative means of compliance. Considering that the pulley bolts are prone to losing torque and shearing, removing and reinstalling them with the proper torque might be a secondary benefit, anyway.
I'm sure I didn't use a torque wrench. I probably got a small box wrench on the bolt from the top in some fashion. It wasn't all that difficult from memory.
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  #23  
Old 05-03-2008, 11:14 AM
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Actually, if the water pump housing is not leaking I would never consider fooling around with it. You're just asking for trouble. They seldom ever leak between the housing and block.

Torqeing it is not necessary just tightening it a normal amount is sufficient.

Tom W
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  #24  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:43 PM
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Does anyone know off hand what size the cap head bolts are that hold on the pulleys?
When I get home this evening, I am going to have yet another crack at this project. There is no way to get a wrench or anything on the stupid bottom bolt with the pulleys installed.

I have been working on this in my free time for a few weeks. By free time, I mean 15 minutes here and 5 minutes there.
"honey I am going to work on the mercedes for an hour".....
"Ok, here hold the baby while I....."
...fast forward 45 minutes...
another 15 minute session on the books.
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  #25  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:50 PM
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which pulleys? The fan? 8mm
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  #26  
Old 03-10-2009, 07:50 PM
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Angry Out cursed bolts!

Thanks for all the good info in this thread but have run into trouble in that a bolt or two sheared. Have met with no success in drilling them out. It is amazing that they broke that easily when the drill doesn't make a dent. Suggestions?
Bless all that have gone before on this project.

1979 300CD
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  #27  
Old 03-10-2009, 08:44 PM
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Well its tricky business. If I had broken off bolts in such a location I would get my favorite machinist to remove them for me. You stand a good chance to bugger up the block if I understand which bolts have broken.

I am thinking if you managed to break two off you probably should not trust yourself to get the broken parts out without ruining your block....sorry.

What you have left to do is not an easy task for someone who is not very very experienced at removing broken bolts.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #28  
Old 03-10-2009, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
I am thinking if you managed to break two off you probably should not trust yourself to get the broken parts out without ruining your block....sorry.
I'm afraid I can't take the credit for this one, as the Husband Unit hijacked the project from the start.
Thank you- I will pass your suggestion along- sounds good to me.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:17 AM
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Good luck.

BE kind and gentle and things will be fine!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #30  
Old 03-11-2009, 08:04 AM
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AND you can put it back 180 degrees off.

6 x 6 mm allen head screws to get the pulley only off. If one strips drill it out w/ right angle head ($14 at harbor freight) for your drill, or pull radiator, fan & shroud (lift or clamp the lower hose so you don't get coolant all over, or drain it altogether into a bucket), loosen and shift the condensor, pull license plate frame and valence below the bumper for a straight shot at it and a better view.


Use 3/8" or 11/32 drill and lean on it. If you're not making chips, and the drill looks beat, it's because the drill was for wood only, now it's not for anything. If you're not making chips and the drill looks OK then it's because the chuck is resting on the pulley and can't go past it. Pull the drill out so you only have 1/4 or 3/8 in the chuck and adjust your angle so the chuck doesn't rest on the pulley. Rotate the crank (only in the proper direction) to adjust your shot at the stripped screws. Use a mirror if you need to.
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Last edited by moon161; 03-11-2009 at 08:20 AM.
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