It is my turn to go through this experience. I have a W210 with 202k miles on it. I was changing the glowplugs. All came out with one exception the one near the oil filter (see attached picture. Any advise on how to get it out?
I read all posts - my case is a little different - not much room.
PAT

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pat201

You may have to get an angle drill or remove the oil filter housing for access.

http://alan.mcreynolds.googlepages.com/howtoremovebrokenglowplugs-mercedesom606

Tape off your valve inlets b4 going further.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Terry,
Thanks a lot.
I checked the attached picture on how to remove the oil filter housing - but I am not sure I have the right one.
How many bolts is holding the housing to the engine? Do you know?
PAT

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pat201

Does it move at all?

If it moves, then just take it slow. I was in your shoes three weeks ago.

Make sure the engine is warm when you are trying to turn it. I definitely noticed that the glow plugs turned easier with a warm engine as opposed to a cold one. Also, make sure you don't push it. Turn it 1/2 a turn a day and just spray penetrating oil on it. I used power blaster, which I bough from the local auto parts store. I also purchased Kano oil, because someone suggested it. At one point I was spraying both.

Good luck.

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1998 E300 Turbodiesel 184K

I believe it is a bolted on part, but mine is hidden beneath my IM above and the belly pan from below so can't say for certain.

If you had a 8" drill bit extension you may "almost" get a clear shot at the GP if the cap were removed from the filter housing??? If you try that, tape the openning off so nothing gets in there either.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

It is not moving at all because the hexagon faces were rounded off. I used almost a full can of Kroil. It worked well on five glow plugs, even for the 6th - it is unscrewed about 25%. But then it got stuck. It took me 3 days to get here.
I also read that I should have used Beru Grease GKF 01 to prevent the new GP from being stuck in the future. Hopefully I will get some tomorrow from Beru in Auburn Hills, MI which is not that far. So I am planning to unscrew the 5 new GP and apply grease then remount them.

I removed the oil cap but I still have not enough space for the drill. I have to take out the oil housing.

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pat201

when I did mine, I used a 6 sided deep socket with a small 1/4 breaker bar. As I started to get the plug out, I had to change over to a 6 sided regular socket because of space limitations. With that arrangement, the breaker bar would not seat entirely in the socket, but I was still able to unscrew the plug. I know you said the faces of the plug have been rounded off, but I don't know if you were using a 12 sided or 6 sided socket.........if you were using a 12, the 6 might be able to help you out.. Good Luck!!

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96 E300d

I had the same problem and ended up taking the head off , it was then sent to a specialist head centre who still could get it out -

They eventually bored a large hole to which they inserted a solid block of ally and re-engineered.

How much did that cost?

I used a deep 6 face socket which actually rounded off the faces. Then I cut off a portion of the GP to try to use a regular socket. It did not worked. Right now I am trying to get the oil filter housing off. However I read that I have to remove the starter as well and that I have to replace a number of o-rings on the housing.

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pat201

I managed to source a second hand head which I sent at the same time which is the one I had reconditioned - my original head required the above which would have meant waiting 2/3 weeks for the work to be done.

The cost for just the head reconditioning (no bolts or gaskets) was £300 sterling, that includes a skim, new valve stems and seals.

If you want a blow by blow painful account of me trying to get the glow plug out here's a link:

http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=5202

Btw, this was for the multi-valve OM 605 diesel which is one of the most expensive bar its cousin the 606.

Please have a look at my thread above as I followed what you are doing; I used a Dremel to create a flat surface in order to run a pilot drill which I did, the problem is the drill car veer off course (which mine did) and go straight through the ally wall -

I think a link to your misfortune was posted here not too long ago.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Have you tried using something else to grab the rounded edges? There are some wrenches/sockets which bite into rounded bolt heads that might save you more trouble.
Something like this comes to mind:

http://www.bt-andf.com/products.php

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml;jsessionid=5IYPDEBRNZRD0CQHUB2CGWQKA4QGIJCK?prodId=IrwinProd100512

I have even used a small pipe wrench or vice-grips to get out rounded nuts in the past with success.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Marty,
thank you for your advice. I tried a socket which grabs the round-off faces without success. As you can see from the picture I have no space for vice-grips or pipe wrench.
I am still working to get it out using the tap + drill method Alan did some time ago. Maybe I get lucky - otherwise if I drill through the head I am in big trouble.

By the way can somebody suggest a shop in Detroit area where I can take the car and have it done by them? How much it could cost?
PAT

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pat201