Do I have to drop the rear subframe in order to replace the supply (pump to valve) hard line? I have a slight leak right under the passenger side front door. I ordered the part from fastlane which I assume is the whole length (from the rubber hose in the engine compartment). If I do need to drop the subframe as I have read...what does this actually entail? Thanks for the help

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

If it's anything like the sedan, it would be MUCH easier to drop the subframe. I bent my own SLS supply line on a euro sedan, and it was a major PITA. I did manage to bend it up and over all that crap in the back, though -- didn't have to drop the subframe. If I had it to do over again, I'd have just cut out the bad section of line and flared the ends, then dropped in a section of new line. My bad section was in the straight length right under the pass seat area; the rest looked good. Good luck!

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Where do I get a cheap (but effective) flare tool. Do I also need some type of union to slice into the old lines?
thanks

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

I think I bought my line, fittings, and flare tool all from fedhill -- http://www.fedhillusa.com/ I can't honestly remember with absolute certainty, though! IIRC, the line is 6mm, the nuts 12mm, and you want a tool that will do ISO bubble flares.

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

It's possible to splice the lines without dropping the subframe. I did it, but I think it added more time and difficulty than it saved by avoiding dropping the subframe.

I bought my 6mm line, fittings, unions and bubble flare tool kit from Performance Tool and Supply (814-362-3221). They are called autopartsmart on ebay. If you call them ask for Kevin, he is familiar with all the parts you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Metric-ISO-Bubble-Flare-Master-Tool-Kit-NEW-L-Warranty_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43995QQihZ024QQitemZ370047902002QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

The stuff from FedHill is better quality, but much more expensive.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Good call, Chad. Now that I see Performance Tool's eBay ads, I remember that's who i used, too. I called them and they gave me a deal on wall the stuff I needed (nuts, flaring tool, line, etc...).

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

What is entailed in dropping the subframe (in order to route the whole length of hardline). Is something I could do in a day or so. Do I need to replace a bunch of other parts when I drop it (bushings etc.)??

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

I'm leaning towards slicing in a replacement (about 5 inches) of steel tubing. Is it advisable to use a compression fitting union such as the setup seen here: http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm
rather than making th bubble fares and using flare nuts and a union?
are the compression fitting strong enough, I'm a little skeptical if I'll be able to get a good seal using a compression fitting on the old line which has some corrosion.

any thoughts??

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

Sorry I can't be more specific, but I think one of the retailers I called (fedhill probably) had a new product that they said might work in a situation like you have (which sounds exactly like my problem). That said, I think a bubble flare would suffice just fine. Just practice a bit on some scrap line and you should be fine.

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

www.swagelok.com to find a dealer near you. They make excellent compression fittings and even make one that goes from 6mm to 1/4" if you want to splice in some 1/4". Maybe a little hack, but it did work for me in a pinch.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

I used high pressure 6mm copper hydraulic line I bought from Maryland Metrics in Baltimore. The working pressure is more than sufficient for the SLS - although I wouldn't trust it for brake systems. The line is flexible enough to be fished between the subframe and the body.

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1984 300TD

I ordered the parts from autosmart as Chad suggested. They were very pleasant and new exactly what I needed. Is all the fluid going to drain out of the system when I cut the lines (right under front pass. seat)? Also, is the system self bleeding. I've read about some people saying the bleed with a valve on the controlling whereas others say it bleeds itself. For the self bleeding method of jumping on the rear bumper: the car should be running, correct? Thanks

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

It's self-bleeding. Yes, the car needs to be running.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Cutting the line under the passenger seat area won't drain the whole system, just that line. There will be enough dripping to warrant using a catch pan. Before you cut into any lines, release the pressure in the system by opening the pressure bleeder valve on the SLS valve.

I jumped on the rear bumper with the car running to bleed and the rest of the air came out during driving.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I just completed splicing in a new section of 6mm hardline. I used compression fittings from SwageLok which were very nice. They have a great selection of compression fittings for any purpose...and excellent customer service. No leaks and fairly easy to install.

On the Other Hand
I ordered the bubble flare kit from autopartmart as Chad suggested. Now these guys are on the opposite side of the cust. service spectrum. They didn't ship orders when they said they would, "lost my order", sent the wrong parts, and they are virtually IMPOSSIBLE to get in touch with. They NEVER answer the phone and the mailbox is full. I want to return parts to them but they won't pick up there phone. During my initial problems with them, when ordering parts they would not answer the phone when I called, however if I called with a friends phone with another area code they would pick right up...hmmm??? (call screening?). anyway I would NOT suggest autopartsmart for anything, if you want timely service and confidence in getting parts when you need them.

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit