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#31
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With a parallel-flow condenser, you should get better performance with 134a than you are seeing.
It is possible that you simply have the wrong quantity of refrigerant. Before replacing the 134a with R12, I would suggest taping the gauge set to the windshield so you can see the pressures while driving. The problem may be obvious. Of course, it may be that your compressor or expansion valve is not up to the task. I think you can eliminate the condenser as the problem. If adjusting the 134a level doesn't fix the problem, I don't think you'll have any problem evacuating the 134a and charging with R12, assuming that your oil really is completely compatible. What oil did you use? |
#32
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Quote:
I already did adjust the level three times and the performance has not changed. I completely took it out once and refilled. Then I tested that. Same. Then I added some more. No change. I did replace the expansion valve and drier. The only thing that was unchanged is the compressor. It is working. This guy also put a PFC on his SD using r134a and had poor results: 300SD parallel flow cond results His results were the same as mine. Also Dave Morrison in the same thread says he put a PFC in and had marginal results on r134a then switched back to R12 and has been good. The oil I used was the BVA Auto 100 from ackits. Here it is: http://www.ackits.com/c/Compressoroils/Auto+AC+Compressor+Oils.html They state that it is compatible with both r134a and r12. |
#33
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You could also try the envirosafe ES12. It's an R12 replacement, and compatible with all oils.
I haven't used it yet, but have researched it extensively and seen some good reviews. I spoke with someone at enviro-safe and the reason it is not more popular (according to them) is that Dupont and whoever throw their weight around in the US and keep them out of the stores. In Canada it is very popular. With R134a you probably used PAG or POE and they're not going to work wiht R12 - you'll wear out the compressor early. My condenser has a hole too, so I'm looking at a PF. Where do you recommend? Ackits or Acsource? I didn't quite follow the whole thing with the mounting kit.
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
#34
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If it isnt r12 its r134 and additives. I used freeze 12 with ok results. I am stocking up on R12 now.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#35
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I checked into both ackits and acsources. I only called ackits on the phone. I got it cheaper on the phone then the internet listed price, plus the guy was really helpful so I'd recommend them but I don't have direct experience with acsources. |
#36
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Another update:
After driving it for two more days with a higher charge and realizing that it blows colder if the fan isn't always on high I've achieved lower temps. With the fan on auto (some medium speed) I got 47F constant at the vent. With the fan on low it dropped to 43F. It has also improved at idle. It now only goes into the low 50sF at idle. I'll think I'll drive it for a bit on r134a before I change it out to the r12. |
#37
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My bad - you used the BVA 100 which I have heard is compatible with R12 and R134a - I missed that part of your post.
__________________
1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
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