Another question for the experts....

The '87 190DT is suffering due to a diesel leak that I have finally been able to narrow down to the location shown in the picture below. This is one item under the hood that I haven't completely had apart yet, so I was looking for some advice on how to go about fixing this before I start ripping everything apart. Thanks in advance.

The delivery valve seals.

Simple o-rings. The only special tool you need is the 30-spline socket to remove the deliver valve holders.

http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-8627.pdf

OM60_series IP delivery valve reseal

Looks fairly clean; invest in a can of carb or brake clener and make certain it is VERy clean before openning up.

If one is bad you may as well do the others as they are probably of equal age.

Don't forget new crush washers.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=46543


My (compress Ignite's) Instructions:

R+R Delivery Valve "O" rings(seals)
7h is the rubber "O"ring (We are going to "Viton" rings now to eliminate any
problems with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel's lack of Lubricity)

BUT, and here is the problem in many replacements:
7i The delivery valve spring is best replaced at the same time.
Along with
7f Which is a "One time Only Use" Copper (crushable) washer used for
sealing the Pressure Valve Holder 7 to the Pressure Valve Carrier 7g.

The other trick is to make sure 7g does not rotate in the process,Nor
should 7k be allowed to rotate in the process.(7k, 7g, and the body
of the Injection Pump have established an almost "Lapped" relationship
to each other by virtue of long standing friction.)

Absolutely Fanatical Adherence to cleanliness standards far surpassing
those in use in a surgical suite will reward the "Do It Yourself"er for
many , many miles.
Also check the FSM for correct tightening torques AND sequence for
your model engine.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I agree with your cleanliness statement, but as far as keeping 7k, and 7g from rotating, its almost impossible to do that. When you go to get out the old crush washer, you are going to disturb the relationship between the two, and in theory, you are correct, but in reality, I don't see how that can be accomplished.

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96 E300d

The manual says to "Note installed position(s)."
I suspect the FSM will describe the "Second Coming" as an impending "Camp
Meeting".

If you will please view Mr. Doom's (Much braver than mine) hands holding the
Delivery Valve(7K)and Lower Delivery Valve Holder(7G) up for inspection in his DIY.

I would have a flat,cosseted(rubber mat would work great) surface that I
could securely lay out the DV and LDV holder on in the proper reference.So
that I could just pick up and re-install without any worries about alignment.

This is one job you do not want the: wife/girlfriend,neighbor(s),Kinders,members
of your animal menagerie,old or new college buddys,The end of the world,a
visit from Ed McMahan,or anything else distracting; disturbing your concentration and ease!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

when I did mine, I had a piece of cardboard cutout under the IP in case anything fell, like a spring, otherwise it would fall in the bellypan. Used spray carb cleaner on top of IP prior to doing any work, and then used compressed air to blow away any dirt or dust. I did one valve at a time, and when I replaced the parts, everything went in the way it came out. I did have some minor nailing for about the first 800 miles or so, but that went away in time, and from reading the posts, it seems to be a common issue when doing this repair. Best wishes.....

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96 E300d