I am getting ready to try a different IP to see if I can solve my rough idle and associated problems. Is it necessary to remove the oil filter housing, or can the pump be squeezed out without removing it?

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

Should not be necessary to remove the oil filter housing.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
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I guess I forgot to specify that its a 617. Thanks for your reply Jeremy

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

i think it is highly unlikely that your IP is behind the rough idle problem. Could you list what steps you have taken so far to correct this problem?

The problem is the lower bracket. You cannot access the bolt that holds the IP to the lower bracket with the oil filter housing in the way. So, you'll need to remove the bracket and leave it attached to the IP. But, whether the IP will clear the housing with the bracket attached is the real question.

The fellows who go in and out with the IP usually don't bother with the bracket due to the difficulty that it presents.

I was at the junk yard and found an 82 300SD. The IP was removed from it and the Oil Filter was intact amd still on the engine. I found the Vacuum Shuttoff laying on the ground by the car and the outer Oil Cooler Hose at the Oil Filter was removed but the hose still hanging there.
I believe the Shuttoff and the Hose were removed to give the IP clearance to come out; but I am not sure. But, I am sure he did not remove the Oil Filter Housing.
Also, I do not recall seeing any IP bracket there either so it must have went with the IP when it was removed.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I can. If I can fit my bear claws in there to remove that bolt, I know others can.

The bolt faces forward and it's impossible to see from below.

I suppose you can get a gearwrench on it from the top, but how would you reinstall it?

If you can get to the bolt without removing the bracket, I'd sure like to see how you do it.

Before you put yourself to this amount of work I have to ask one question: Have you done a compression check??

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Dionysius

GearWrench is what I use.

Agreed...........but, how can you get the bolt started again...........it's about 11" down from the top.........???

Put the bolt in the gearwrench and put a magnet on the head of the bolt to keep it in the wrench. Takes a bit of effort but it works.

......ahh........the tricks of the trade.

The benefits of being a mechanic...........

This is what I have done:
Compression: 405-415 on all cylinders
injectors:good
valve lash: just did
Chain stretch: 2*
rack dampener
Filters

Now I have changed the injection pump, that helped a little, It certainly Idles a little better, but still shakes a bit. I also suspected the pump, because torque drastically falls off above 3000 rpm, and I never exceed 9 psi boost with the wastegate disabled, yes I checked wastegate operation, it works fine. I'm stumped...

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

I agree, after swapping IPs on a 616, which is a real PIA but a piece of cake compaired to a 617, the IP wasn't the problem I called my wife in with her small hands to help on that %^&$# aft bracket bolt. Dont be too hasty pulling that IP.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
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1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
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