#2 & #4 Glow Plugs Bad Again @ 20k miles OM603
 

I repl all the glow plugs on my 87 300D @ 249k. Well 20k later I got no GP dash light and sure enough #2 and #4 ohmed out at 10,000 (the rest are 1.1).

These were new from the MB dealer, bout 2 yrs ago (not even).

Is this a common problem with cars running good, reputable, 2 tank WVO systems (like frybrid)?

Least its not the #6 plug, maybe I can get these out with the mani in but I doubt it.

You might consider taking them back and gently complaining; depending on how old they are. Seems you should get more life than that out of German plugs...

. . . but don't tell them about the WVO conversion.

Glow plugs are something like light bulbs in that some last much longer than you would suspect and some less. For the price of a glowplug, however, I would try expressing a polite "concern" and see what happens. They might at least replace them at cost.

Jeremy

I can't see how fuel type would have anything to do with the glow system. Did you ream the holes when you replaced them? That is said to play a major role in the life of the plugs.

Just pull the cruise servo to do the plugs. Four 5mm Allen bolts.

It means everything. If the engine is coking, then the glow plug holes get full of carbon and it will decrease the life of the plugs. Reaming will help.

Anyone know what size reamer to use?

Before I did the WVO conversion I had it all apart and the intake and valves were very gummed up, coated with black soot. I couldnt clean it all out (how to clean valves?) so I left it.

I didnt ream holes though. The price wasnt too bad from dealer. They like my car so for some reason Im getting wholesale pricing. Think it was like $9 per plug so I guess I dont need to ***** too much. Its just the labor involved. Those dam injector lines are like prison bars when you are trying to reach in. I was praying as I probed #6, thankfully that one ohm;d out at 1.1.

You have to get the reamer for your engine or substitute something; check the threads, Fastlane, Ebay or online part dealers.

Well, check this:
http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=601%20589%2000%2053%2000

Usually one takes the ohmmeter reaing at the cable end where it pugs into the GP Timer module. Check from each of the 6 pins to ground, the resistance of the ire in the harness is a fraction of an Ohm, so the overall reading will be only slightly higher than if probing directly to the GP tip. Only a 4 digit digital Ohmmeter would be capable of reading the difference. What you are looking for is a consistency of resistance values

Is there anywhere stateside to buy that reamer?

Ive done the ohm testing with good equipment, #2 and #4 definitely read bad. Strange thing though, every once and while the GP light does come on. Do the GP get grounded against the head where the reamer is supposed to clean?