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  #46  
Old 08-31-2008, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
New nozzles often don't spray perfectly, they need some break-in time. Not always though. But after break-in, the pop pressures typically drop by 2-5 bar compared to new. I'd pop test before installing and write down the numbers, then run then for a few thousand miles, then remove and balance them.

If you balance to begin with, you may need to re-balance a few after break-in (or all of them, if you're trying to set to a specific pressure). Of course this is much easier if you have a pop tester in your garage (~$200 or so). Kinda tough if you're paying a shop to do the work.

I know there is a differance of opionion/s and I offered the info was offered for Folks to make their own choice.

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  #47  
Old 08-31-2008, 01:17 PM
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I would not bother balancing a new set unless it's horribly out of spec, because if you're reusing the same shims that previously led to a balanced set, there's a good chance the new set will end up balanced as well once the nozzles break in. Of course testing the injectors before installation is always a good idea, but it's not absolutely necessary. If the engine runs smooth and sounds good, it's unlikely there's anything wrong with the injectors.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

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  #48  
Old 08-31-2008, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselAddict View Post
It's different on my '96. Like I said the 3/6 valve on mine opens as early as approx. 1000 RPM. But I think the X/O behavior is the same as I noticed that one opens much later, but I don't know exactly at what RPM.

Also interesting is my observation that yes, both valves are closed with the engine off, but if you unplug their electrical connections with the engine on, both valves open.
I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but the shop manual for the 96 model reads as follows:

Idle speed to 2550 plus or minus 100rpms...both flaps should be closed.

From 2550 plus or minus 100rpms, to 3350 plus or minus 100rpms, intake resonance flap opens, and intake manifold resonance flap is closed.

Over 3350 plus or minus 100rpms, both intake resonance and intake manifold flaps are both open.
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  #49  
Old 08-31-2008, 03:03 PM
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That is weird. You can verify this on your own car. With your head over the engine compartment, rev the engine slightly past 1000 RPM than back down gradually to idle. You should hear the 3/6 valve close audibly if it's like my car.
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  #50  
Old 08-31-2008, 08:01 PM
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I bought Bosio nozzles, but must leave town again so it sits. Shawn
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  #51  
Old 09-03-2008, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pimpernell View Post
I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but the shop manual for the 96 model reads as follows:

Idle speed to 2550 plus or minus 100rpms...both flaps should be closed.

From 2550 plus or minus 100rpms, to 3350 plus or minus 100rpms, intake resonance flap opens, and intake manifold resonance flap is closed.

Over 3350 plus or minus 100rpms, both intake resonance and intake manifold flaps are both open.
Have you ever verified this on your own car? Anyone else?

The darn ping showed up again today and I'm now suspecting my 3/6 valve (or intake manifold flap). But before I go and buy the new controller for it, I'd like to make sure that mine is indeed opening too early. Can anyone with a NA OM606 do the test I mentioned, i.e. in the engine compartment rev the engine to about 1500 RPM then back down to idle slowly and listen for the valve closing (it's quite audible). If no one can do this test for me I might try driving with this valve disconnected and see what happens.
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  #52  
Old 09-04-2008, 12:34 PM
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Anyone??

I wonder if my vacuum hoses to these flaps are reversed. Even if I reversed them back, the behavior wouldn't be exactly as specified above, but it would be closer and at least in the correct order. I think I'll give that a try.
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  #53  
Old 09-04-2008, 08:11 PM
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>>Anyone??

The snippet posted ealier in the thread about X/O and 3/6 were results obtained from my 95 E300D. I checked their operation because I wasn't sure if someone before had messed up the wiring and piping.

These manifolds work a little bit like organ pipes - the long pipes make the low notes, and the manifolds should be long when the engine is running slowly - i.e., the air is pulsing at low frequency.

The valve in the crossover pipe should be closed at low engine speeds, so the two pipes remain independent - but, this should be the first valve to open.

The valve in the base of the manifold, which I called 3/6 should, again, be closed at low speed, so the manifolds remain long and independent, but, open at high speed, so the engine sees a very short manifold.

By your description, something seems to be plumbed in backwards.
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  #54  
Old 09-05-2008, 01:08 PM
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I checked the plumbing last night and everything looked like it was hooked up correctly. So I just ordered a new change-over valve, the thing that controls both of these flaps. I hope that will do something.
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  #55  
Old 09-12-2008, 12:54 PM
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I have the new change-over valve installed, but it's a disappointment. The behavior seems identical to the old one. Driving the car didn't reveal anything new either. A good waste of money.
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  #56  
Old 09-12-2008, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselAddict View Post
I have the new change-over valve installed, but it's a disappointment. The behavior seems identical to the old one. Driving the car didn't reveal anything new either. A good waste of money.
At the worst, consider it preventative maintenance What was the daamge for the valve anywho?
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  #57  
Old 09-12-2008, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
At the worst, consider it preventative maintenance What was the daamge for the valve anywho?
$85. This wouldn't be the first time I did "preventive" maintenance.

Out of sheer curiosity, would you or anyone else check the operation of those valves on your own car? I'd really appreciate it. Watch the manifold valve (you can see while standing over the engine) as you slowly rev the engine (you can just push on your throttle linkage). Mine opens right above fast idle. Either the literature is wrong, or both my new and old change-over valves are bad (unlikely) or there's some other problem on my car (possible but still unlikely).
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  #58  
Old 09-12-2008, 03:00 PM
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I can tell you one thing though, that over about 3,000 or 3,500 rpm's, I can hear a distinctly deeper tone from the engine (this is when I think my middle valve opens fully). I removed the plastic piece of the intake that rests on the side of the radiator prior to entering the airbox. It was a PITA to remove and reinstall if I needed access there....

Try that!
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  #59  
Old 09-12-2008, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
I can tell you one thing though, that over about 3,000 or 3,500 rpm's, I can hear a distinctly deeper tone from the engine (this is when I think my middle valve opens fully). I removed the plastic piece of the intake that rests on the side of the radiator prior to entering the airbox. It was a PITA to remove and reinstall if I needed access there....

Try that!
I don't follow. Try what? If you mean listening to the engine as I approach redline, there's no distinct sound that emerges from what I can hear. The engine pulls well & consistently throughout the entire RPM range. That's why it never occurred to me until people started quoting the literature here that my intake flaps may not be working correctly.
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  #60  
Old 09-12-2008, 03:11 PM
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Can you create an mpeg or movie of the operation of the valves as a reference. We can through ideas back and forth all day long, but an actual motion picture would help the most I think. The capabilities of most digital cameras today would do the trick.

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