I just bought a '78 300d and have been using this forum to fix all sorts of problems. I'm stuck on this one though and would appreciate any advice.

The transmision shifts only when I let off the accelarator. This is actually kind of cool. I've grown to like controlling the shifts with the accelerator, but I'm a little concerned that the transmission will be damaged eventually.

Also, when slowing there is noticeable clicking sound.

Anyone have any advice here?

To be honest, If I could remove the clicking and be assured that the tranny wouldn't burn up. I like the late shifts.

The transmission is a four bolt pan.

Thanks

Bill
The Green Barrel Company

I think you can adjust the shifting by modifying the length of the rods that run from the throttle linkage to the transmission. My 77 performed like yours and I really liked it.
You'll need to narrow down the source of the clicking. Are you implying that you think it's coming from the transmission? I typically associate that kind of sound with brakes.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Hi Bill,

My 1984 300sd will shift when I lift up on the throttle too, But I have set mine to shift at 4200 RPM's going into 3rd gear without lifting my foot, I have it to the floor.

What I did is I took my car to the back road and adjusted it where I liked the shifting.

Getting in and out of the car until I got it where I wanted it, It took me several day to get it fine tuned.

Under the hood there is a cable that runs from your throttle to your transmission, It has a plastic nut that you can turn easily with your fingers.

When you turn the plastic bolt IN you will SHORTEN your shifts and when you turn it OUT you will LENGTHEN your shifts, So I hope this makes sense.

Now about the clicking sound, Where is it coming from? Things I would check is the drive line flex disks and center bearing.
Usually when the drive line is going bad it will vibrate around 30 to 40 miles per hour.

The flex disks should be with out any cracks! If you see cracks replace them ASAP

I don't think a 78 has a Bowden cable. It has metal rods.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

What you are refering to here is the bowden cable. This cable is not available on his 300d. Your 77 300d has mechanical linkage that attaches to the throttle linkage / assembly. You will see a rod on the intake side that runs down past the valve cover to a rod that's parallel to the ground that hooks to a lever attached to the transmission. by changing the length of the parrallel rod...this adjusts the shift timing. It takes alot of fine tuning. taking her for a run seeing what she does and then adujusting it further to get it right. TRUST me it takes a while.
-Stephen

__________________
68 250s SOLD
78 300d non turbo SOLD
1980 240d manual SOLD
1981 300SD 360,000 miles I think she's doomed for a parts car but has a good engine SOLD the engine to spamman
1977 300d non turbo SOLD
1985 300SD california car
1978 240D Manual

Check CV joints as well for the "clicking". Also check exhaust system hangers.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Thanks for the advice. I found the rod that controls the shifts. Looks like a real pain to adjust.

Anyone know about the secondary or rear pump? I believe mine is broken and making the popping noise. There is a plate being sold to block off this pump. Any opinions there?

Bill