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  #16  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:04 PM
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I have said it before and I will say it again...I just don't see the advantage in buying a low mileage one of these cars and paying a huge premium for it. The one thing I can tell you is that the drivetrain is excellent on my '98 but it is everything else that causes heartache with age, not miles. Buy one with 120-150K on it or more, put the difference in $$$ away in the bank and save it for parts. You will need to spend money keeping one of these on the road whether it has 80K or 200K miles on it, the only difference is if you buy one with 80K on it you will spend a lot more over the time you own it to keep it running and in depreciation.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
I have said it before and I will say it again...I just don't see the advantage in buying a low mileage one of these cars and paying a huge premium for it. The one thing I can tell you is that the drivetrain is excellent on my '98 but it is everything else that causes heartache with age, not miles. Buy one with 120-150K on it or more, put the difference in $$$ away in the bank and save it for parts. You will need to spend money keeping one of these on the road whether it has 80K or 200K miles on it, the only difference is if you buy one with 80K on it you will spend a lot more over the time you own it to keep it running and in depreciation.
I think that is very well stated, and couldn't be closer to the truth!
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:41 PM
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I just am tired of high mileage tired cars that need a lot of work. The theme for the next purchase is the newer the better.

IMHO its worth $15k to me, nothing more. If it goes above that I can get a really nice 2002 E320, or for $10k more a much newer CDI.

Just watching at the moment though.
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2008, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
I just am tired of high mileage tired cars that need a lot of work. The theme for the next purchase is the newer the better.

IMHO its worth $15k to me, nothing more. If it goes above that I can get a really nice 2002 E320, or for $10k more a much newer CDI.

Just watching at the moment though.
High miles and 9yrs young is very different than the same miles and 20 yrs old; which was Marty's point.

Mine is 3x those miles. Think how many orings have yet to fail, then consider the SOV, K40 relay, etc that are common repairs on these cars that have yet to fail beacuse it's been parked so long between uses. I'd also take one that had been used more often AND that had been maintained, rather than pay a premium for that one which hadn't.
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2008, 02:14 PM
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It makes me wonder of the E300D is even worth getting, an E320 is cheaper will yeild similer fuel burn, and doesn't really have any problems.
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  #21  
Old 05-23-2008, 06:46 PM
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The w211's are problematic cars. You have the SBC Brakes, no dipstick etc, they aren't very friendly for DIYers. 20 years from now the W210's will still be relatively easy to work where as it will be a major PITA to do anything on a w211. The w210 e300's were the last of the line, newer MB's will be very difficult to work on without a SDS unit. The W210 diesels are plenty fast (especially with mild upgrades like a chip, exhaust etc). Everything that the new W211's have my W210 has (bluetooth, heated seats, navigation, power folding mirrors, dvd in motion, mp3's etc). The W211 is not a progression of the W210's but rather a huge step backwards in terms of reliability and design.
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  #22  
Old 05-23-2008, 10:37 PM
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I like the W210 and I have done a fair bit or wrenching on them and found them to be great cars.

But a couple of weekends ago my friend got a 2008 E350 loaner, and I had a blast with it. I love the W211 the interior is so much nicer.

I no longer have a desire to own a 20 year old car. 1999 is pushing it thats 10, I'd only keep it for 5.

I would only buy a 2006 or newer W211, the tech's say those are far far better. I'd prefer a 3 year old CPO car, than keep it for 5 wash and repeat.
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2008, 10:46 PM
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The electronics on the car are reporting two active faults. If you look at the picture of the instrument cluster you can see two small rectangles (pages) adjacent to the trip miles ...... those two "pages" represent two active faults. It could be something simple like a burnt out bulb or low windshield washer fluid .... or it could be something more serious like a glow plug or injection pump malfunction. If you are seriously considering the car in susposately pristine condition I would ask the (most likely a scamer) seller to tell you what are the faults. He'll probably wonder how in the hec you knew.

David Roseman
Long Beach, Ca
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  #24  
Old 05-24-2008, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAR2KMR2 View Post
The electronics on the car are reporting two active faults. If you look at the picture of the instrument cluster you can see two small rectangles (pages) adjacent to the trip miles ...... those two "pages" represent two active faults. It could be something simple like a burnt out bulb or low windshield washer fluid .... or it could be something more serious like a glow plug or injection pump malfunction. If you are seriously considering the car in susposately pristine condition I would ask the (most likely a scamer) seller to tell you what are the faults. He'll probably wonder how in the hec you knew.

David Roseman
Long Beach, Ca
Dam this forum is great! Im coming here before next purchase, and hoping you guys dont see mine if I ever sell You'll prob come up with issues I never knew of just from the pics!
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  #25  
Old 05-24-2008, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
I'd prefer a 3 year old CPO car, than keep it for 5 wash and repeat.
Sometimes I wonder if that's the best thing to do. You lose money on depreciation but theoretically you shouldn't have any maintenance cost or lost time associated with repairs. The problem is coming up with the cash to buy a 3 year old CPO car. Any potential cost savings will be lost with a loan.

Scott
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1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
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  #26  
Old 05-24-2008, 11:00 AM
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Wow thats pretty good I didn't notice that either.

I'm not seriously considering this car though, just starting to watch the market. I figured you guys would be able to pick it apart for me!
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  #27  
Old 05-24-2008, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
Sometimes I wonder if that's the best thing to do. You lose money on depreciation but theoretically you shouldn't have any maintenance cost or lost time associated with repairs. The problem is coming up with the cash to buy a 3 year old CPO car. Any potential cost savings will be lost with a loan.

Scott
You still have to pay for wear and tear maintenance on a CPO car, same as any used car. Brakes, tires, oil changes and routine maintenance are the same. The only difference is the risk of incurring a major expense from a defect covered under the CPO warranty is eliminated, but then again you pay for that up front in the added cost of the car over a used car without the CPO plan. CPO is nothing more than an extended warranty, and like any extended warranty those who offer it have done the math to ensure that overall they make a (large) profit on it. Yeah, you might get the one car out of 5 which pays for the CPO coverage in repairs but the odds are against that.
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  #28  
Old 05-24-2008, 12:38 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
Sometimes I wonder if that's the best thing to do. You lose money on depreciation but theoretically you shouldn't have any maintenance cost or lost time associated with repairs. The problem is coming up with the cash to buy a 3 year old CPO car. Any potential cost savings will be lost with a loan.

Scott
There is something to said for that approach (if you can find a late model car you like), if you have the cash available. Never, ever borrow money to buy any car.
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