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  #1  
Old 05-28-2008, 02:12 PM
Registered Hack
 
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crankshaft removal without timing disturbance

FSM says to mark the camshaft gear and chain in relation.
Will the IP gear move with minimal effort?
Does the cam gear have a one way relation to the shaft? (only goes on one way)

Are there markings on the cam for TDC?

Any related tips/tricks for this removal are greatly appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 05-28-2008, 04:14 PM
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When the engine was assembled at the factory the Camshaft Gear is assembled at TDC. However, after the chain stretches it may no longer be at TDC. If it was me before I removed enything I would line up the Chamshaft Gear timing mark with the Camshaft Bearing Tower make sure what it is actually is. Here is a split pic of mine Camshaft timing marks aligned on the left of the pic and Crankshaft Damper marks on the right side of the pic. Mine is about 2 degrees off of TDC.

The IP is not easily rotated by hand but that would not prevent the timing chain from jumping a tooth down by the timer.
The Camshaft Gear is keyed to the Chamshaft, but it is possible to put it on backwards which messes th chain up.
I would do some extremely carful reading of the FM concerning how to do the job and how everthing driven by the timing chain works.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 05-28-2008 at 04:20 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2008, 07:16 PM
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I think it's possible.
try this. put some dowells in the cam holes so it cannot turn at all, tie them to the cam towers. also use wire or zip ties all around the cam to hold the chain from moving at all.
this ought to ... are you planning on removing the head? this won't work if you are....
anyway, assuming you are just pulling the crank, next remove the chain tensioner so you have enough slack to remove the timing gear from the crank. see if you can now get the crank out of the chain. you may need to cut a link to get the crank out, I do not know, but this would hold the IP and the Cam from moving.
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  #4  
Old 05-28-2008, 09:23 PM
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That is excellent, thanks.

I know on a 240d the chain cannot jump teeth on the IP timing gear; there are one or two pins that prevent this, sent through the block at a distance from the IP gear that is less than the width of a link.

I will NOT be pulling the head. FSM suggests taking the camshaft gear off, Zip ties here are an excellent suggestion thank you. Question about this the re-insatllation of the cam gear - Is there more than one way to put it on?

EDIT-- found pics with a key on camshaft, resolved.


in addition.. is there a shortcut, or at least a reasonable means of cleaning the oil galleries without removing the steel balls? I fear this procedure immensely
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Last edited by jt20; 05-28-2008 at 09:52 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2008, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
That is excellent, thanks.

I know on a 240d the chain cannot jump teeth on the IP timing gear; there are one or two pins that prevent this, sent through the block at a distance from the IP gear that is less than the width of a link.

I will NOT be pulling the head. FSM suggests taking the camshaft gear off, Zip ties here are an excellent suggestion thank you. Question about this the re-insatllation of the cam gear - Is there more than one way to put it on?

EDIT-- found pics with a key on camshaft, resolved.


in addition.. is there a shortcut, or at least a reasonable means of cleaning the oil galleries without removing the steel balls? I fear this procedure immensely
A member in the Phillippines said that when he had is valves adjusted they found that a previous mechanic had installed the Chamshaft Gear backwards, so it is possible.
I can't help concerning the removal of the steel balls to access the oil galleries. I read just enough in the manual to know that they used balls and stopped reading hoping I would never have to remove them.
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post

in addition.. is there a shortcut, or at least a reasonable means of cleaning the oil galleries without removing the steel balls? I fear this procedure immensely
I didn't remove the steel balls when I rebuild my engine. I used hot water and air pressure, coulda probably done it faster with the balls removed but i didn't like the idea either
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2008, 01:50 AM
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Steel Balls

The FSM shows them as an Interference fit.(I.E. Squeeeeze those little babies
into the oil galleries by force.)
Question: Once you've forced them past their set-point and into the block itself
What is going to "Hold" the re-installed balls(Or New Ones)????????????????????

I like the idea of Threading the end of the oil galleries for a Bolt (Locktite).
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  #8  
Old 05-29-2008, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
The FSM shows them as an Interference fit.(I.E. Squeeeeze those little babies
into the oil galleries by force.)
Question: Once you've forced them past their set-point and into the block itself
What is going to "Hold" the re-installed balls(Or New Ones)????????????????????

I like the idea of Threading the end of the oil galleries for a Bolt (Locktite).

Once pushed in (the steel balls) there is an opening of greater width than the the oil galleries that 'catches' them. They only go so far so as to allow flow. But then I am lost, It appears you have to get them from the other side,.. totally lost.

Can't thank you guys enough!!!

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:36 PM
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^^ woah, I was completely wrong. The balls are knocked out the flywheel side via 85cm rod through the front near crank sensor. Then knocked-in through the way they came out. I have a spare block I a going to attempt this with.

Is there is a good way to estimate the torque on the crankshaft bolt other than using my breaker bar and measuring from the center out to applied normal force?

The torque wrenches that go that high are expensive. I do not have air.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2008, 11:24 PM
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just get it on there snug you dont need to torque that bolt down.

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